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 A Weekend In...Bonassola, Italy
The tiny town of Bonassola, wedged between mountains and sea on Italy’s Ligurian coast, is hardly a secret: Shipping and commercial fishing gave way to tourism here long ago. And when Hemingway happened upon Bonassola, he called it “so sweet, unforgettable, inexhaustible.” As other Italian resort towns have grown prohibitively expensive — or packed wall-to-ancient-wall with tourists — a town such as this, which feels much the same as it did 30 or 40 years ago, becomes especially enticing. While many American travelers know the five famous towns of the Cinque Terre, Bonassola, just a few miles farther north, offers a much mellower vacation alternative. — Julie Mautner
SLEEP n
The most distinguished hotel in Bonassola is the Hotel Villa Belvedere ($63 to $131; 011-39-0187-813-622, www.bonassolahotelvillabelvedere.com); its hillside location is a mere five-minute hike from town. La Francesca ($88 to $250; 011-39-0187-813-911, www.villaggilafrancesca.it) offers private bungalows, a pool, tennis courts, and great views. And both Albergo Delle Rose ($48 to $104; 011-39-0187-813-713,
www.hoteldellerosebonassola.it) and Hotel Lungomare ($76 to $110; 011-39-0187-813-632, lungomar@tin.it) sit just steps away from the beach, while Hotel Pensione Moderna ($78 to $106; 011-39-0187-813-662, www.pensionemoderna.it) prides itself on the traditional Ligurian recipes of Eleonora Di Zoppi, 84, the niece of the original owner.
EAT n
Restaurants here range from sand-on-the-floor rustic to surprisingly refined. And fresh seafood is the order of the day. Locals claim that Da Malvina’s (011-39-0187-813-761) fritto misto and spaghetti with clams are the best in town. At the more casual Degli Aranci (011-39-0187-813-605), request a garden table and snack on fried marinated anchovies or ravioli with walnut sauce. For snacks, Paninoteca Pippilan’s (no phone, Via S. Erasmo, 1) crunchy Bonassola sandwich (Parma ham, cheese, tomato, arugula) is ridiculously addictive.
DO n
Daytime in Bonassola is all about the beach: It’s wide, clean, public, and safe for even the tiniest bambino. For those who want them, private clubs have restaurants, changing cabanas, activities for kids, and daily and weekly rates. In the moonlight, fishermen cast from the cool, wet sand. The gorgeous Cinque Terre — now a national park — are easily accessible via a frequent light-rail train, a magnificent mountain road, and regular ferry service. The traditional way to see them, though, is to hike from town to town. (The hills along this coastline offer some of the best hiking and biking in Europe.) Sightseeing boats go to Portofino and Portovenere, and fishing, sailing, and other water sports are easily arranged.
SHOP n
While there are better towns for shopping (Milan, Rome — this is Italy, after all!), Bonassola has its own treasures. Ferramenta Casalinghi (011-39-0187-813-786) and Maglione (011-39-0187-813-616) sell lovely Tuscan tableware and mortar-and-pestle sets that are made from local marble.
Bonassola is about 59 miles from Pisa (American Airlines provides service with oneworld partner British Airways), 112 miles from Florence (AA provides service with SN Brussels Airlines), 137 miles from Milan (AA provides service with British Airways and SN Brussels Airlines), and 277 miles from Rome (AA operates seasonal service from Chicago and New York/JFK). For more flight information, visit www.aa.com; to learn more about Bonassola, visit www.prolocobonassola.it.
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All Hands Forward
Freezing? That chill in the air serves as another chance for you to show your fashion chops. This season, gloves are functional and fabulous, ranging from chunky, old-school knits and low-key leather to cutting-edge colors that resonate with fall’s signature glam quotient. — Amy Tara Koch
WomenTraditional Cable-knit Gloves, $30, www.jcrew.comWomen’s Leather Basic Cashmere-lined Gloves with Button Detail, $98, www.coach.com
 MenMen’s Seamed Leather Gloves, $58, www.armaniexchange.comLambswool Cable Gloves with Leather-trimmed Palm Panel by Polo by Ralph Lauren, $45, www.amazon.comMen’s Leather Drive In Glove, $78, www.kennethcole.com
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View from the Top
Talk about pressure: Forbes recently named PepsiCo’s Indra Nooyi the fourth-most-powerful woman in the world — and she’s barely even started her new job. Nooyi, the soft-drink giant’s new CEO, was edged out only by German chancellor Angela Merkel, U.S. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice, and Chinese vice premier Wu Yi in global clout. But in the male-dominated world of the Fortune 500, she’s one of only 11 female chief executives, joining the likes of Archer Daniels Midland’s Patricia Woertz and Xerox’s Anne Mulcahy at the pinnacle of corporate America. ¶ Nooyi’s ascension to the corner office represents progress — but not much, according to Catalyst, a research firm that studies women at work. “Indra certainly joins rarefied air,” says Catalyst vice president Deborah M. Soon. “Unfortunately, progress has been glacially slow.” After all, in 2005, women held barely 16.4 percent of corporate officer positions in the U.S., a slim 0.7 percent increase since 2002. At that pace, it will be 40 years before there’s real parity in the nation’s boardrooms. ¶ There are a few culprits, says Soon: a lack of female role models, little access to male-oriented networks, and old-fashioned stereotyping. But with Nooyi at PepsiCo’s helm, there’s one more female corporate superstar to show the boys how it’s done. — Chris Taylor
The Path to Success > Corporate America may still be largely a men’s club. But you might not know it by looking at these powerhouse women, who head up some of America’s largest companies. Here’s a look at how they rank in corporate clout on the Fortune 500 and on Forbes’ list of the most powerful women in the world — and how they got to where they are. — C.T.
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Walking Contradictions
In the introduction to her new book, The Hummer and the Mini (Portfolio Hardcover, $25), trendmaster Robyn Waters says businesses need to stop thinking outside the box. These days, there is no box. There’s paradox.
Waters contends that we live in a polyglot age, in a time ruled by contradiction — when people buy diamonds and fine crystal at Costco, when Chanel-aholic socialites also shop H&M, and, yes, when a humongous Hummer and a miniature Mini are likely to share a driveway.
Waters, who helped raise Target from regional discounter to design powerhouse, says trends are now so diffuse, there is no one “next big thing” but a thousand. She turns her spotlight on businesses as diverse as Whole Foods and DaVinci Roofscapes, which each, in their own way, capitalize on consumers’ increasingly expanding desires.
But don’t come to this book seeking answers; Waters offers none. Instead, she illuminates a landscape of paradoxical trends so confusing that it makes well-meaning marketers hyperventilate — and then she says, “Get over it.” Embracing contradiction is not only the way to peace but also the way to profits. How to embrace those contradictions? That’s up to you.
— Tracy Staton
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Gifts That Keep on Giving (Literally)
While it’s all well and good to give a gift your recipient of choice will truly love, isn’t it that much better if your gift also serves as an ongoing reminder of what a wonderful person you are? Oh, come on. We’re kidding. Mostly. The easiest way to give a dandy gift and garner some ongoing warm thoughts for yourself: a three-month subscription to a gift-of-the-month club. Here are six of our favorites. — Jenna Schnuer
Put an end to the long drives to that art-film center miles and miles away. Film Movement delivers one new independent (such as Monster Thursday, pictured above) or foreign film and one short film per month. And there’s no schlock here — these puppies are picked by top-notch film-festival directors. $48, (866) 937-3456, www.filmmovement.com
Sweeten things up with tasty treats straight from America’s Dairyland. WisconsinMade.com, an all-things-Wisconsin gift company, has partnered with O&H Danish Bakery to send out their famed Danish Kringles far and wide. $59, (877) 947-6233, www.wisconsinmade.com
Know somebody who thrives on a bit of heat? Get them fired up with the Hot Sauce of the Month Club. A monthly shipment of twoyou-won’t-find-them-at-your-local-market sauces will certainly get your loved ones a-sizzling. $57, (800) 566-0599, www.flyingnoodle.com
Bath fizzies are da bomb of relaxation products and come in every scent you could possibly imagine — but, really, do you know anybody who actually buys them for themselves? Send your favorite bath fanatic three months’ worth of fizzy bliss. $115, (888) 717-2284, www.bathtopia.com
Bacon. Yum. Breakfast and BLT lovers will shed tears of joy (really) over these monthly bacon deliveries from Zingerman’s, Michigan’s best-loved deli. The club name, When Pigs Fly, gets our vote for best in show. $89, (888) 636-8162, www.zingermans.com
It’s definitely a for-children-of-all-ages thing: We can’t imagine anything happier (well, besides getting the bacon) than receiving a new tin toy in the mail. So imagine what it would be like to receive a new one every month! It’s a small step back in time and a huge step forward in fun. $40, (800) 424-3950, www.thingofthemonth.com
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By the Guiding Grace of, Well, a Travel Guide
There was a time when the bigger and more ponderous the travel guide, the better. Such behemoths were meant as bibles, the fount of all information about a place. Times are changing, though, and less is more when it comes to what we want to lug along on our journeys. Consider these newfangled encyclopedias of place when planning your next vacation. — Becca Hensley
 Find Your Place
An ingenious new take on the usual travel guide, PlaceNotes are durable traveler’s information cards that expound on specific aspects of a setting: a building, a park, a painting. Created to celebrate the discovery of travel and give the user a sense of place, these cards illuminate such cities as Houston and Santa Fe. $20, www.placenotes.com
 Paper the City
For those who live by the rules of bon ton, exactly where you go matters. Perfect for the trendy tourist, Wallpaper City Guides tell discerning travelers what they need to know. Colorful, design-savvy guides boasting sections such as “Urban Life,” “Sports,” and “Spas,” these pocket-size wonders explain what’s hot in 20 cities around the world. $9, www.wallpaper.com
 Snap to It
Lightweight yet dense in factoids, Budget Travel Snap Guides are mini-miracles. Need the scoop on the best dance floor in Buenos Aires? The most potable cocktail in Los Angeles? Let the locals tell you in this downloadable, printable guide, which is meant to be discarded after you complete your trip. Free, www.budgettravelonline.com
Listen to the Voices
There’s help for those of us who love the discovery of travel but hate to look like a tourist. These days, iPods replace the ubiquitous umbrella-toting tour leader. They save us from asking directions and unfolding unwieldy maps on foreign street corners. So rush to your computer now and download these sound-seeing programs that will illuminate your next sojourn.
 PodScrolls are colorful dining and drinking guides from Rough Guides that reveal the food and drink of Dublin, Amsterdam, Madrid, and other cities. Free, www.roughguides.com
Soundwalk assaults the senses with audacious interactive walks through New York neighborhoods (as well as some other destinations). Led by voices from the area, you’ll hip-hop through the Bronx and beyond with these streetwise audio programs. $12, www.soundwalk.com
BlueBrolly’s London Audio Walks take you on 50-minute wanderings from Shakespeare’s Globe to the murder sites of Jack the Ripper. $9 to $22, www.bluebrolly.com
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