Recently, I went to a dinner party at the home of an Indian friend. The guests split themselves into two camps: In one room sat the Americanized second generation, in their jeans and T-shirts, eating samosas and talking pop culture; in the other room sat their immigrant parents, the women in saris and the men in finely pressed business clothes, playing parlor games from the old country. Bumping into some of those parents, in the kitchen or at the bar, brought on a mild form of anxiety for me. I was delighted to be in this home, warm and noisy with laughter, but I wasn't sure what to talk about, what to say. When I spied the film Devdas, the Titanic of Bollywood cinema, sitting on the video shelf, I casually mentioned to my friend's father that I was working on a story about the film's star, Aishwarya Rai. We spent the next hour in conversation.

For fans of Bollywood cinema - the old-fashioned song and dance of India - no name elicits as much praise as Aishwarya Rai. Her beauty is legendary, the kind of perfection poets go mad attempting to describe. Julia Roberts, not exactly a slouch herself, has called Aishwarya Rai the most beautiful woman in the world. Roger Ebert went Roberts one better. In a review of Bride and Prejudice, the forgettable 2004 film that marries Bollywood spectacle with English-language romantic comedy, Ebert called Rai "not only the most beautiful woman in the world but the second most beautiful as well." Rai has starred in more than 30 films and is the highest-paid actress in Bollywood. Largely unknown in the United States (but not for long), Rai is an international superstar, with 18,000-plus websites devoted to her. Telling my friend's dad I'd be talking to Aishwarya Rai was a bit like walking into a party in Jersey and casually announcing I'd be interviewing Madonna.

HOLLYWOOD LIKES TO think it has a lock on moviemaking, but the truth is that in many parts of the world, the Bollywood movie industry is as profitable, and as popular, as our own. With their elaborate song and dance numbers, romantic melodramas, swashbuckling adventure, and absolutely no sex, Bollywood films are products of a precynical age of cinematic storytelling. They are feel-good films and can last up to three and a half hours. Despite the international appeal, many American moviegoers wouldn't know a Bollywood film from an Egyptian educational movie.

If there is someone who can bridge that cultural gap, it is Aishwarya Rai. She has already made inroads to Hollywood. If her impossibly thick lashes are familiar, it may be because she is the new face of L'Oréal. She appears in a handful of upcoming American films, such as Provoked with Miranda Richardson, in which she plays an abused Punjabi woman. The 2007 film Chaos casts her opposite her favorite American actress, Meryl Streep. Time magazine recently named Rai one of the 100 most influential people in the world, alongside Condoleezza Rice, Steve Jobs, and Nelson Mandela, among others. She once taught Oprah how to tie a sari. If anyone can make that compelling television, it's Ash, as her fans call her.

With her crisp Queen's English and unparalleled beauty, Rai is the ideal person to give Americans a greater appreciation of Indian cinema. She is also the perfect person to introduce us to Mumbai (formerly Bombay), the heart of Bollywood and her beloved hometown.

"Mumbai reminds me of New York City," she says. It has that same big-city buzz - bright lights, streets clogged with vendors and cars, constant motion, people of various backgrounds and languages. "Mumbai is much more cosmopolitan than the rest of India. Because it is the home base of Bollywood, it is also the most glamorous and productive city in India. Many Indians dream of living in Mumbai, making it the fastest-growing city in India."

Known for its vibrant, hectic street bazaars and modern crush of people, Mumbai may appear a lot like New York, but it also has an ancient hum. "Every Tuesday, hundreds of people walk barefoot to offer their devotion at the Shree Siddhivinayak Ganapati Temple, also known as the Ganesha Temple," says Rai, referring to the gorgeous two-century-old Hindu temple in Prabhadevi dedicated to Ganesha, the God of Wisdom.

That doesn't mean Mumbai isn't bustling with restaurants and bars. The city boasts the best nightlife in India. "Most clubs close at midnight, but there are a few spots that remain open all night long," says Rai. Trendy bars like the Olive Bar & Kitchen in the Bandra section of northern Mumbai cater to Bollywood hotshots and other elites, but Rai says the best spots can be found in the cluster of nightspots in Bandra and Juhu, where clubs like Enigma (inside the Juhu Beach's JW Marriott) attract a line of young people snaking outside on most weekends. It's those places, says Rai, where "you can feel the heartbeat of the city pulsating in the heat."

OF COURSE, Westerners will probably be most familiar, and perhaps eager, to sample Indian food, which has made a steady influx into strip malls across the country. Restaurants like the popular fine-dining spot Khyber offer hot, steaming naans and rich masalas­ in a sophisticated atmosphere. Delicious food can be found at carts on the street as well. Bade Miya is a no-frills takeaway spot that sells chicken tikka masala and kebabs to a packed crowd until one a.m. "The food, fruits, and spices are wonderful," says Rai of Mumbai cuisine. She praises chai, a spiced tea, and talks fondly of strolling to a local street vendor such as Mani's Dosa for a fresh snack."The city has a way of enjoying the finer things and the simple things in life at once," she says.

Rai has lived in Mumbai for more than two decades. Though she began modeling in the ninth grade, she went to college planning to become an architect. When her career exploded, however, those plans derailed. In 1994, she was crowned Miss World; a successful entrée to Bollywood wasn't too far behind. Dismissed initially as mere eye candy, Rai made good on her talent in 1999's Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam and then in 2002's Devdas, which broke box office records and became the first Bollywood film to screen at Cannes. She is the undisputed Queen of Bollywood, and despite whatever success and attention she receives from the West, she plans to continue working in both countries, as well as in any other country that promises a quality script, a great cast, and a good director. Besides, to her there isn't much difference between the two industries. "Good films are good films regardless of being made in India or abroad," she says. "I believe a great story transcends cultural lines and language barriers."

Because of her success, she is increasingly absent from her beloved city. When she's away from Mumbai, she says, "I miss the happiness and excitement of our many street fairs and festivals. Every day you will find a wedding procession and some sort of festivity in the streets. We celebrate everything we can to show our appreciation and gratitude for life."

There is so much going on in the streets and, indeed, on every corner, that planning a trip to Mumbai can feel overwhelming. I asked Rai to describe what she would do in the city if she had only one day. "Take a long walk along Juhu Beach on the beautiful shores of the Arabian Sea," she begins. "Juhu is a popular area for filmmakers, and you might just catch a crew filming there. Take a relaxing horseback ride, join a group of strangers exercising along the shore, or just kick back under the palm trees." The Juhu beachfront is packed with five-star hotels - and plenty of people.

"You should visit the Gateway of India, which is perhaps the most striking monument in Mumbai," Rai continues. Built in the early twentieth century for the arrival of King George V and Queen Mary, the grand turreted monument is a reminder of the country's colonial past. It's also the spot to take a ferry into Mumbai's harbor. "An hour away from the Gateway by boat is ­Elephanta Island, a group of beautiful caves, temples, shrines, and sculptures in honor of Hindu gods and goddesses," says Rai. "This is a very spiritual and unique place to spend the day." She suggests Marine Drive, also known as the Queen's Necklace, as a good place to hang out in the evening. She ends her one-day excursion like any young starlet might: "Shopping, dinner - and then party the rest of the night away."

AN EXCITING CLASH of traditional and modern, Mumbai shouldn't be so foreign to us. Yet many Americans still carry around deep misunderstandings about the country. "I don't believe the West has truly understood Asia, and I don't believe that India has truly understood the West," Rai says. "We are in the process of learning about one another, which is a wonderful adventure in itself."

This is something Rai is utterly passionate about. When I ask her what she wishes more people knew about India, she really opens up. "I wish they knew that India is not poor," she says. "It is not a land of wild animals. It is not a third world country. The size of our population is almost one billion and one hundred million people, leading Westerners to assume that we must be poor. But our education, intellect, and cultural heritage make India a very rich country indeed. India is a civilized country and the world's largest democracy, with forward thinkers and technologies that will see India becoming a superpower within the next 20 years. Almost half of our population is below the age of 30. We are truly a young, educated, and strong country."

With that kind of unabashed patriotism, you can see why she has become the poster girl for a new India. With her knockout looks and au courant fashion sense, Rai appeals to second-generation Indians who know the world extends far beyond their borders. But an articulate and spiritual woman who has yet to kiss a man on-screen, Rai has a reserved elegance that wins the approval of the older crowd. She appeals to all ages and, one suspects, all cultures - even American. It's no wonder the Indian parents at my friend's house couldn't stop talking about her. If one woman is going to be the face of a country, it certainly doesn't hurt if the woman is as stunning as Aishwarya Rai.

She Said …
Where Aishwarya Rai goes in Mumbai to show her appreciation and gratitude for life

ATTRACTIONS
Elephanta Island, Tickets to go from the Gateway of India to Elephanta Island are available from Mahesh Travels and Tours (011-91-22-2282-0139).

Gateway of India, on the peninsula at the end of C. Shivaji Maharaj Marg, Apollo Bunder.

Juhu Beach, located about 11 miles north of the city center.

Marine Drive, located in central Mumbai from Nariman Point to Babulnath.

Shree Siddhivinayak Temple, 011-91-22-2437-3626, www.siddhivinayak.org

DINING
Bade Miya, 011-91-22-2284-8038

Khyber, 011-91-22-2267-3227, or 011-91-22-2267-3229

Mani's Dosa, street stall on the corner at Ahimsa Marg.
Olive Bar & Kitchen, 011-91-22-2605-8228

NIGHTLIFE
Enigma, 011-91-22-5693-3000

We Said … Where we go in Mumbai to show our appreciation and gratitude for life

LODGING
The Mirador, moderate to expensive, 011-91-22-2826-9000, www.themirador.com. The Mirador might be so popular with business travelers because, on the outside, it looks a lot like an office building. Inside, it's anything but, boasting inviting, modern decor featuring European accents, warm tones, and soft lighting that make it feel more like a home than a hotel.

Sun-n-Sand, moderate to expensive, 011-91-22-5693-8888, www.sunnsandhotel.com. It's hard to believe that only 40 years ago this was one of the first hotels to open on popular Juhu Beach. It remains a local favorite for its frequent updates, affordability, and oceanview rooms.

DINING
Mahesh Lunch Home, moderate, 011-91-22-2287-0938. Within walking distance of the Sun-n-Sand and other oceanfront hotels is this cozy Mangalorean seafood spot serving fresh lobster, crab, shrimp, and more. They've got good ol' American burgers on the bill, too, but why bother when a dish like black pomfret curry is sitting there with your name on it?

Out of the Blue, inexpensive, 011-91-22-2605-8227. Blue's food - primarily pastas, fondues, and sizzlers - is worth writing home about, but it's their special weekly themed meals that make it worth the price of postage. Tuesday nights, for instance, local artists create mini masterpieces as you eat, and each table gets a free painting.

SPORTS
Bombay Presidency Golf Club, 011-91-22-2520-4874. You might not think about packing your clubs for a trip here, but, after Great Britain, India was the second country to take up the sport, so they know a little something about the game. This, Mumbai's oldest course, dates back to 1827, but has since been updated by Peter Thompson.

Wankhede Stadium, 011-91-22-2281-1795. You can catch a spirited cricket match at various fields all over town, but this is the city's largest venue, as well as the home of the official Mumbai cricket team, the winningest team in the country.

ENTERTAINMENT
Eros Theatre, 011-91-22-2282-2335. Bollywood, as this area of the world is known, churns out twice as many movies a year as Hollywood, and the Eros is a great place to experience one of its current blockbusters. We say "experience" because Hindi films are high-energy romps that often have audiences dancing in the aisles and singing along to their spirited sound tracks.
FRIDAY