Alexander Selkirk | Robinson Crusoe | historical site | Chilean forest

In the summer months (October to April), visitors come for the excellent scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, bird watching, and ecotours. The islands boast several rare species of plants and birds that are found nowhere else on earth, including a hummingbird that stands five inches tall. Except for the airstrip and village, the entire island of Robinson Crusoe is part of a UNESCO biosphere preserve.

Marín is taking clients out to scuba dive, but agrees to give me a ride over to the next beach, Puerto Inglés, which is inaccessible except by boat. I want to see the historical site that is Selkirk's Cave. Supposedly this jagged rock formation was where Selkirk first lived when he was stranded here in 1704. Actually, technically speaking, Selkirk was not stranded: He voluntarily left the ship, thinking it was no longer seaworthy. When he suddenly changed his mind and ran back into the surf, it was too late - the crew ignored his shouting and sailed away.

Selkirk's Cave is cold and damp, with a perfect view of the ocean, but there's no real evidence Selkirk ever stayed here, and locals later tell me he probably never did. Nevertheless, the Chilean forest service has posted a sign outside describing the Selkirk history.

The next morning, I'm determined to follow in the footsteps of Alexander Selkirk. Although saddled with depression and regret, the abandoned sailor did manage to make a life for himself on the island. He built­ huts out of trees and cooked meals in a salvaged iron kettle. He domesticated feral cats to ward off the rats that chewed at his hands and feet while he slept. And each day, he climbed to a lookout point to watch for an incoming ship that would take him away.