Strange, Surprising Adventures. Illustrations by Ted
Burn.
Truth and fiction come together in the exploration of one tiny
island whose storied past inspired one of the world's first real
novels.
Daniel Defoe's classic novel
Robinson Crusoe was first published in
1719. Since then, more than 700 versions and translations of the
book have described the adventures of a shipwrecked English sailor,
marooned on an island along with his Man Friday. After the Bible,
Crusoe is said to be the world's most widely read book.
The primary source for Defoe's adventure is the true-life story of
Scottish sailor/pirate
Alexander Selkirk, who after becoming
stranded, lived in complete isolation on a small volcanic island
off the coast of what is now
Chile. Clothing himself in goatskins
and surviving off the island's abundant seafood, wild game, and
vegetables, he was finally rescued four years later and was
described as looking like "a hairy ape."
I've come here to
Robinson Crusoe Island, about 400 miles from
civilization, to see if anything still remains of this peculiar
literary heritage.
Just getting to the island is a small adventure in itself. It isn't
what one would consider easy, by any stretch. You have to take a
small plane from
Santiago, fly three hours over open ocean,
eventually land on a postage-stamp-size runway, walk two kilometers
along a gravel road to a pier, and then get on a fishing boat for
another two-hour trip around to the opposite side of the island
before you even arrive at the main village. During the rainy
season, there are few visitors; planes can't navigate the weather.
Robinson Crusoe Island is actually part of the Juan Fernández
archipelago, a group of three tiny islands: Isla Más a Tierra, Isla
Santa Clara, and Isla Más Afuera. In 1968, the Chilean government
renamed all three to promote tourism. Maps and brochures now list
them as Robinson Crusoe,
Santa Clara, and Alejandro Selkirk
islands, but locals still refer to them by their Spanish names.
Only Robinson Crusoe is inhabited, with a population of about 600
residents, 10 or so cars, and a handful of dogs and chickens.
Selkirk actually only lived on Robinson Crusoe (rather than on his
namesake island, Alejandro Selkirk, as one would think). But this
is only one of many confounding historical details. Although Defoe
based his book on Selkirk's life, which was written about in
British publications after his rescue, Crusoe is actually set in
the
Caribbean, not the
South Pacific. Defoe also invented the
character of Friday; Selkirk was alone. And in the book, Crusoe and
Friday were stranded for 28 years. Selkirk was picked up by a ship
after just four years on the island. Nevertheless, Chile has
renamed the island Robinson Crusoe, a central street is called
Daniel Defoe (also the name of a
hosteria and a bar), and
the local library displays a large collection of Crusoe editions in
various languages.
Our wooden boat slowly chugs its way along the western shore of the
island, edging past sheer rock cliffs. I wonder if Selkirk ran up
and down these peaks, his bare feet leathery and tough, looking for
any sign of a ship on the horizon. My companions don't speak much
English, and I don't know much Spanish, yet we still manage to
communicate to a degree. They open up a compartment and show me the
day's haul of scuttling
langostas (lobsters) and wriggling
eels. The island is famous for its langosta, a spiny lobster that
once grew up to three feet long in these waters. Like most of us,
Selkirk probably thought a langosta looked creepy and disgusting.
Until he tasted one, anyway.
We eventually pull into the harbor of San Juan Bautiste, the
island's only settlement. Locals refer to it as Cumberland Bay. I
step onto the pier and head off to my hosteria, wheeling a bag
along the bumpy dirt road. A huge wooden statue of Alexander
Selkirk stands in the village plaza. He looks tired.
I meet up with Pedro Niada Marín, a scuba instructor and ecotravel
guide who explains a few more details about the island. There are
no hospitals. There are no banks or credit cards. There is
telephone service and, as luck would have it, limited Internet
access, if you sign up in advance at the library (satellite
Internet service was donated to the island by the Bill and Melinda
Gates Foundation).
The island has a school, museum, cemetery,
soccer field, tourism
office, a few markets and bars, and two fuel-powered generators
that provide
electricity. The harbor is dotted with freshly painted
green and white boats. Most people here make their living by
fishing, except for the mayor, who is also the police chief.
Supplies are brought in by ship from the mainland.
Beyond the Selkirk story, the Juan Fernández archipelago is ripe
with history. Spanish sailor Juan Fernández discovered the group of
islands by accident in 1574 while sailing between
Peru and
Valparaíso, a Chilean coastal town, and christened the islands with
their original names. Some years later, the main island served as a
legendary hideout for pirates - although to the disappointment of
many, no treasure has ever been found.
Then during World War I, the German cruiser
SMS Dresden was
surrounded by British ships at Cumberland Bay after the Battle of
the Falkland Islands. With no engines operational, and still flying
the ensign flag, the commander ordered it scuttled. The wreck now
sits in 200 feet of water at the harbor bottom. Divers discovered
the ship's bell in February.
In the summer months (October to April), visitors come for the
excellent
scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, bird watching, and
ecotours. The islands boast several rare species of plants and
birds that are found nowhere else on earth, including a hummingbird
that stands five inches tall. Except for the airstrip and village,
the entire island of Robinson Crusoe is part of a UNESCO biosphere
preserve.
Marín is taking clients out to scuba dive, but agrees to give me a
ride over to the next beach, Puerto Inglés, which is inaccessible
except by boat. I want to see the historical site that is Selkirk's
Cave. Supposedly this jagged rock formation was where Selkirk first
lived when he was stranded here in 1704. Actually, technically
speaking, Selkirk was not stranded: He voluntarily left the ship,
thinking it was no longer seaworthy. When he suddenly changed his
mind and ran back into the surf, it was too late - the crew ignored
his shouting and sailed away.
Selkirk's Cave is cold and damp, with a perfect view of the ocean,
but there's no real evidence Selkirk ever stayed here, and locals
later tell me he probably never did. Nevertheless, the Chilean
forest service has posted a sign outside describing the Selkirk
history.
The next morning, I'm determined to follow in the footsteps of
Alexander Selkirk. Although saddled with
depression and regret, the
abandoned sailor did manage to make a life for himself on the
island. He built huts out of trees and cooked meals in a salvaged
iron kettle. He domesticated feral cats to ward off the rats that
chewed at his hands and feet while he slept. And each day, he
climbed to a lookout point to watch for an incoming ship that would
take him away.
A steep trail winds up a mountain from the village to the top of
Mirador de Selkirk (Selkirk's Lookout). According to legend, each
morning the sailor made this trek, hoping to spot some sails on the
horizon. Supposedly, Selkirk was in such good physical shape, he
could outrun the goats. But after spending half an hour struggling
up the slope, I'm convinced he was either a freak superhuman
athlete, or this was done while running downhill.
About halfway up (and just as I'm wondering if anyone has ever
collapsed on this trail or twisted his ankle - after all, I'm
completely alone up here, and it'd be all day before someone would
find me), I come upon a stream of rainwater that is diverted into a
makeshift drinking spout so that hikers can stop for refreshment. I
sip the cool liquid, the very same water that nourished Selkirk.
Dark clouds suddenly materialize in the sky and dump a hard rain.
This happens at least five times a day, and usually lasts for about
15 minutes, followed by the warm sun.
I reach the lookout spot, and the view from the peak is amazing.
Once again, there's a commemorative sign about Selkirk. Locals
later whisper to me that this couldn't have been Selkirk's actual
lookout because of the direction it faces. Mountains block the view
to the west, which means from the Mirador, he wouldn't have been
able to spy ships coming from the mainland to rescue him.
Whichever location he used as a vantage point, one day in 1709,
Selkirk spotted the privateer ship
The Duke in the bay and
ran down to the coast to build a fire. When he was brought aboard,
his rescuers could barely understand his babbling. Selkirk
returned to England, stories were written about his adventures, and
he became a wealthy man. The sea ultimately drew him back, however,
and on a 1721 expedition, he succumbed to yellow fever off the
coast of Africa.
On my last night, Marín invites me out for a fish barbecue. A small
group meets up at the pier, and we set out on a fishing boat to
find a quiet cove. We pass dozens of floating lobster traps, the
langostas' antennae poking and waving out the tops of the crates.
Marín explains that fishermen will temporarily store the langostas
here in the harbor while they go back out for more. Nobody steals
them; it's the langosta honor system here among the islands.
The boat drops anchor, and Marín and his crewmate, Marco Araya
Torres, start a fire inside the boat. A cooking wok is produced,
and soon the smells of scrambled halibut, garlic, and peas fill the
air. Everyone takes a wooden plate and digs in with chopsticks, and
wine is passed around. After dinner, Torres stands up, claps his
hands, and announces it's time for entertainment. As he begins
singing a dramatic love song, Marín's wife, Fabiana, joins him. I
can't help but think that somewhere in the hillsides above us, the
ghost of Alexander Selkirk is getting an earful.
How to Get There
American Airlines flies direct to Santiago once a day from Miami
and once a day from Dallas/Fort Worth. From there, Robinson Crusoe
Island is serviced by two Santiago-based regional airlines,
Transportes Aereos Isla Robinson Crusoe (TAIRC, www.tairc.cl,
011-56-2-531-4343) and Linea de Aeroservicios S.A. (LASSA,
011-56-2-273-5209). TAIRC departs from Los Cerrillos airport, LASSA
from Tobalaba airport. Both are an hour's taxi ride from Arturo
Merino Benítez International Airport in Santiago.
When to Go
October through April is the summer season on Robinson Crusoe
Island, and traveling during this peak time is highly
recommended.
Where to Stay
Prices for all of the island’s hosterias fluctuate, but they usually range from $40 to $100 per night. Because they tend to open and close without warning, for remodeling and such, it’s best to check the island’s official site (www.comunajuanfernandez.cl) for the latest updates and for information on booking accommodations. (Use the site’s “Traductor” link, Google’s friendly “Translate This,” or Babblefish.com to translate the site into English.) Some of the nicest and most English-friendly hosterias include:
• The Aldea Daniel Defoe hosteria, bar, and restaurant sits right on the harbor, with an outdoor deck flying a pirate flag. It was built in 1968 by Uruguayan poet and artist
Blanca Luz Brum, and her paintings and maritime memorabilia decorate the walls.
• El Pangal Hosteria is the island’s luxury accommodation, with a
swimming pool and excellent bar (
www.robinsoncrusoetours.cl).
• Martinez Green Hosteria features 14 rooms with private baths.
• Villa Green Hosteria offers four double rooms and two suites with private baths.
• Smaller hosterias and cabins are also available.
Where to EatMost hosterias provide daily island meals. Aldea Daniel Defoe, in particular, has excellent fresh seafood.
ActivitiesEndemica Explorations offers snorkeling and scuba diving, sportfishing,
kayaking, hiking, and horseback tours (
www.endemica.com, 011-56-322-75-1003).
For tourism and travel information, visit
www.enjoy-chile.org/juanfernandez-chile.php or call
(866) 978-5538.