But, eventually, the temptation not to bubble became too great. The
Ferrer family, which is still very much a hands-on owner, decided
to take a plunge, announcing Freixenet's new portfolio of
still-wine brands, called the Heredad Collection. It includes
wineries in Ribera del Duero, Penedés, Rías Baixas, and, of course,
Priorat.
At present, Morlanda is made from Grenache, Cariñena, and Cabernet
Sauvignon. The 1998 is deep and luscious, with rich berry, plum,
sweet oak ... and no bubbles.
ALVARO PALACIOS 1998 FINCA DOFÍ ($60)
Alvaro Palacios is one of the guiding lights of Priorat. His
father, José Palacios, was a winemaker in Rioja (another Spanish
region that's
undergoing a dramatic renaissance) and his nephew Ricardo Perez is
also an oenologist. In the early 1990s, after studying in Bordeaux,
Palacios decided that
Spain's greatest red wine could be created in
Priorat. His L'Ermita, a $200-per-bottle cult wine, is definitely a
contender for Spain's best red. The Finca Dofí, at less than a
third the price, doesn't fall far behind and is a better value.
Palacios is one of a new generation of Spanish winemakers with an
international outlook. He likes to compare his wines not so much to
other Spanish wines, but to the best wines from around the globe.
In keeping with this philosophy, Finca Dofí is very modern in
style. It has juicy, explosive blackberry fruit and gorgeous depth,
length, and balance. It is one of the best wines I've tasted this
year.
CIMS DE PORRERA 1998 ($75)
Like many other Priorat wines, Cims de Porrera is a relatively new
creation, resulting from the association between the cooperative
cellar at Porrera, winemaker Jose Luis Perez (of Mas Martinet
winery), and Louis Llach, a famous Catalan singer whose roots are
in Porrera. The first vintage was in 1996. A special space is set
aside in the Porrera co-op for the vinification and cellaring of
Cims.