TENEMENT (157 Ludlow St.; 212-766-1270) is a fascinating new restaurant on New York’s Lower East Side that evokes the era of the late 19th century, when European immigrants poured into the neighborhood. The eatery pays homage to ethnic cookery with foods like potato pancakes and stuffed pirogi, while the bar serves up such toddies as the Bloody Delancey and The Mickey — the latter of which is made with potato vodka and named after the way Irish street kids roasted potatoes on sticks in barrel fires.