The river, and the moment, were passing. I stood there trying to remember it all. The sun and wet on my face, the slap of waves rocking the boat, the giddy closeness I felt for my companions, a small lizard, an arm's length away, nipping ants off a rock.

The next day, 188 miles from Lees Ferry, we stepped ashore for good. The river ran on.

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take a wild ride
more than a dozen professional river outfitters will take you down the colorado, and they offer lots of options - half-day floats to 8-day motorized trips, escorted kayak trips, and 16-day oar trips. most commercial trips are offered between april and october. outfitters have their own personalities, so it pays to ask around to see which one is right for you. for more information, visit the grand canyon river outfitters association at www.gcroa.org.

arizona river runners,
(800) 477-7238, www.raftarizona.com

canyon explorations & canyon expeditions,
(800) 654-0723, www.canyonexplorations.com

grand canyon expeditions,
(800) 544-2691, www.gcex.com

hatch river expeditions,
(800) 433-8966, www.hatchriverexpeditions.com

moki mac river expeditions,
(800) 284-7280, www.mokimac.com

o.a.r.s. (outdoor adventure river specialists),
(800) 346-6277, www.oars.com

western river expeditions,
(800) 453-7450, www.westernriver.com

wilderness river adventures,
(800) 992-8022, www.riveradventures.com

grand reading