attractions
the blue mosque, 011-90-212-518-1319
the cagaloglu baths, 011-90-212-522-2424, www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr
corlulu ali pasa medresesi, yeniceriler, cad 36, cemberlitas
the grand bazaar, carsikapi cad, beyazit
topkapi palace, 011-90-212-512-0480
turkish foundations calligraphic arts museum,
011-90-212-527-5851

nightlife
babylon, live music, 011-90-212-292-7368

we said...
where we indulge our vices in istanbul


lodging
bentley hotel, expensive to very expensive, 011-90-212-291-7730, www.bentley-hotel.com. a trendy neighborhood, chic clientele, and designer accommodations complete with high-tech electronics and espresso machines - you might think you were in a hotel in new york or los angeles, but this is istanbul at its finest. but the hotel has only 50 rooms and eight suites, so you'd better book ahead.
hotel sari konak, moderate, 011-90-212-638-6258, www.sarikonak.com. the rooms at this charming, family-run establishment are just fine, but we prefer the roof. why? that's where you'll find a lovely terrace with unparalleled views of the blue mosque and the marmara sea.

dining
kumpir street vendors, inexpensive. the ortaköy section of town may feature some of the most coveted tables in town (at restaurants like dada and angelique), but we'd rather wander its cobblestone paths and plop down a lira for one of those crazy kumpir concoctions - a giant baked potato stuffed with cheese, butter, and everything from pickles to peas.
the pudding shop, inexpensive, 011-90-212-511-0539, www.puddingshop.com. an istanbul institution since 1957, there is perhaps no better, cheaper, or more historic place to introduce your taste buds to turkish cuisine.

attractions