Oh, Barcelona!

by Mark Seal

The Casa Batlló is just so extraordinary. Basically, the entire motif of the building is a dragon being slayed. On the outside you can see that there seem to be skulls. It is the wildest thing. When you enter into it, the staircase is so phenomenal; the craftsmanship of the woodwork and the glasswork and just the design of it is breathtaking. In a lot of these buildings, Gaudí would make the central part of the buildings all light, like a courtyard. So there would be constant light coming into various parts of the house. The main thing is that people actually lived here. There was some super-duper rich guy who commissioned Gaudí to create numerous buildings, and this was one of his houses. It's mostly all empty, but you can go in and experience it. You can touch the banister. You can see the amazing fireplace, the unbelievable windows. I just love all the really supernatural, kind of underwater designs. It's amazing, because it's all ceramic tile, and it's like the scales on the back of a dragon. There's also La Pedrera, which is basically a Gaudí museum. The most remarkable thing about La Pedrera is the roof. I think he believed that every single part of a house should be beautiful. Oftentimes we fail to recognize the roof. The roof is just this amazing kind of strange, alien sand dune. What I love about his work is that it's constantly the most creative thing and always very, very new. It's just breathtaking. You can see the whole city from there.

Did you have a favorite place for lunch?
Kaiku has one of the best menus in the city. Every weekday they offer a selection of appetizers, entrées, desserts, and wine for a very good price - about eight to 12 euros. It's a beautiful, perfect place. Everything there is completely fresh, and it is a very homey atmosphere. I would not even be able to tell you what I ate. It always helps being there with Spanish people who can order for you. And there is El Vaso de Oro in Barceloneta, which serves tapas, specializing in la plancha [the grill].



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