1 Be prepared - Madrileños can eat a lot. Tapas may be small, but all those teeny platefuls add up.

2 Madrileños stay out late, sometimes until dawn, grazing all the way. The grand finale as the sun comes up? Churros and thick-as-syrup hot chocolate for breakfast.

3 Tapeo outings can occur anytime, from the late afternoon to a 10 or 11 p.m. dinner, or starting after dinner and lasting all night.

4 Don't be afraid to join a crowded bar. You're always welcome, especially if you're willing to try a local specialty like spicy tripe or lamb's brains.

5 Don't sit. Most tapas-goers stand. (It's cheaper and more fun to order at the bar.)

6 Order your drink and wait five minutes. Usually, the barman will bring you something for free, perhaps some almonds or olives, to whet your appetite.