THERE WAS A great urge to headline this piece something cute, like “Praise the Lord, and Pass the Barbecue Sauce” or “Holy Smoke” or “Heaven Can Wait; I’ve Just Ordered the Three-Meat Platter.” But blasphemy concerns aside, that would have been a galloping injustice to the institution Annie Mae Ward, a faithful member of the Huntsville, Texas, New Zion Missionary Baptist Church and a barbecue cook extraordinaire, established three decades ago.
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