blank-slate beverage | Stockholm | Australia | Norway
Northern Lights
by
Anthony Dias BlueTo Scandinavians, flavoring spirits
such as vodka is old hat. They've been doing it for centuries
in what they affectionately call aquavit.
Vodka is probably the world's most ubiquitous spirit. It's a
blank-slate beverage - odorless, colorless, and (at least to the
uninitiated) nearly tasteless. This anonymity is the secret to
vodka's astounding success, since it allows drinkers to add the
stuff to just about anything they like and wind up with a cocktail
that's to their taste.
A few years ago, infused vodkas became all the rage. Citrus flavors
were especially popular, but bartenders also concocted fiery
pepper, spicy cinnamon, and sensuous vanilla versions. Spirits
manufacturers themselves cashed in on the do-it-yourself infusion
trend. Vodka now comes in about as many prebottled flavors as
Baskin-Robbins ice cream.
The first Swedish license to sell aquavit was granted in Stockholm
in 1498, but you can bet that the Swedes were making and downing
aquavit at home long before it became a licensed commercial
enterprise. Aquavit is often taken with a beer chaser, but it's
also a ritual part of a Scandinavian meal, served in traditional
long-stemmed glasses. Instead of the domestic preference for fruit
flavors, Scandinavian tastes prefer herbs and spices such as
fennel, anise, dill, and especially caraway. Skål!
LINIE AQUAVIT ($30)
In 1805, the Norwegian Lysholm family accidentally sent a shipment
of its aquavit to Australia. When the misdirected cargo finally got
back to Norway, the Lysholms found that the stuff had developed
smoother, richer flavors after crossing the equator twice. They
named their new aged aquavit Linie (Norwegian for equator) and kept
the process a secret for many years.
Today's Linie still uses the original Lysholm recipe, right down to
the sea voyage. The potato-distilled spirit is flavored with
caraway and herbs grown in the Norwegian countryside, then stored
in casks previously used in the production of oloroso sherry, which
adds notes of vanilla and oak. At any given time, a thousand casks
full of Linie are maturing as deck cargo on Norwegian freighters on
the open sea. The barrels spend four-and-a-half months rolling with
the waves, docking in 35 countries, and crossing the equator twice.
This is a toasty, rounded aquavit that's great on the rocks with a
twist of lime.
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