Two-for-one Special
by Mark SealWe stayed at the Yesil Ev, which means "the green house." It's
gorgeous, a converted Turkish palace right by the
Blue Mosque. We
stayed in the Pasha Room, which has a little hamam in your
bathroom, a little steam room. It's a traditional Turkish thing to
do, which means you sit in a room which fills up with steam, and
you sweat and sweat and sweat and you get refreshed. The Yesil Ev
is very grand, old Ottoman style, with very ornate four-poster beds
and gilded chests of drawers and chandeliers. It's almost rococo
or something. It's like Ottoman, European, ornate furniture. Quite
fancy. Historic. Gorgeous.
Did you dream of going to Istanbul when you were a
child?
Well, I went with my family when I was a child, so I guess I had a
young impression of it. I don't remember an awful lot of it, but I
do remember the Blue Mosque and a trip on the Bosphorus River.
Also, the call to prayer. If you're not brought up in a mainly
Muslim country, it's a very unique thing to hear. You know what I
mean by call to prayer? ["Yes!" I assure her.] And the market.
There's a great market, the Grand Bazaar, where you can buy spices
and fruit and handbags. The market's absolutely great. You have to
go in and haggle there. It's part of the culture. They don't like
to sell something without the bargaining. There's one main one
that's a covered market that's just phenomenal. We bought a couple
of old blankets, and I bought an old, embroidered belt with a big
silver buckle. You can see the great Turkish carpets at the Museum
of Turkish and Islamic Arts. The carpets are all about geometric
design, and they all have meanings.
What do you remember from your most recent trip?
We went to the Topkapi Palace, where the Ottoman emperor lived. And
you can get a tour of the harem, where the emperor would keep all
of his wives. It's no longer in use, of course.
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