Blue Mosque | Istanbul | Kristin Scott Thomas | The English Patient

Two-for-one Special

by Mark Seal

I want to answer with something clever, intelligent, exotic - along the lines of what Fiennes told Kristin Scott Thomas when they were stranded together in the desert in The English Patient. ("There is a whirlwind in southern Morocco, the aajej, against which the fellahin defend themselves with knives. There is the africo, which at times has reached into the city of Rome. … The alm, a fall wind out of Yugoslavia ... The samiel from Turkey, 'poison and wind,' often used in battle.")

But I blow it with a blunder before we even begin.

So, we're going to talk about Istan-BUL.
Yes, please. As the people there say, Is-STAN-bul. Yes, it's very funny. I've always said Istan-BUL, coming from England. But, there, they say Is-STAN-bul.

I stand corrected. How did you discover it?
I went there as a child with my family, and I just never forgot the Blue Mosque. It's such a beautiful mosque. Then, I went to the Turkish Film Festival a few years ago with my boyfriend and fell in love with it. The Blue Mosque is immense, huge, and it's all blue inside, obviously, as the name suggests. It's incredibly impressive, visually, very romantic and awe-inspiring.

My guidebook says, "It takes its name from the mainly blue tile work. Its minarets are circled by keening animals …"
It has hand-painted blue tiles, calligraphy, and abstract geometric design, which has philosophical, religious meaning to the Muslim culture. If you're interested in that, there's a museum of calligraphy. They're big on calligraphy and geometric design. That's what the tiles have on them.

So where does one camp out in Istanbul?




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ISSUE: Nov 15, 2005
American Way Cover - 11/15/2005