The tiny town of Bonassola, wedged between mountains and sea on Italy’s Ligurian coast, is hardly a secret: Shipping and commercial fishing gave way to tourism here long ago. And when Hemingway happened upon Bonassola, he called it “so sweet, unforgettable, inexhaustible.” As other Italian resort towns have grown prohibitively expensive — or packed wall-to-ancient-wall with tourists — a town such as this, which feels much the same as it did 30 or 40 years ago, becomes especially enticing. While many American travelers know the five famous towns of the Cinque Terre, Bonassola, just a few miles farther north, offers a much mellower vacation alternative. — Julie Mautner

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The most distinguished hotel in Bonassola is the Hotel Villa Belvedere ($63 to $131; 011-39-0187-813-622, www.bonassolahotelvillabelvedere.com); its hillside location is a mere five-minute hike from town. La Francesca ($88 to $250; 011-39-0187-813-911, www.villaggilafrancesca.it) offers private bungalows, a pool, tennis courts, and great views. And both Albergo Delle Rose ($48 to $104; 011-39-0187-813-713, ­
www.hoteldellerosebonassola.it) and Hotel Lungomare ($76 to $110; 011-39-0187-813-632, lungomar@tin.it) sit just steps away from the beach, while Hotel Pensione Moderna ($78 to $106; 011-39-0187-813-662, www.pensionemoderna.it) prides itself on the traditional Ligurian recipes of Eleonora Di Zoppi, 84, the niece of the original owner.

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Restaurants here range from sand-on-the-floor rustic to surprisingly refined. And fresh seafood is the order of the day. Locals claim that Da Malvina’s (011-39-0187-813-761) fritto misto and spaghetti with clams are the best in town. At the more casual Degli Aranci (011-39-0187-813-605), request a garden table and snack on fried marinated anchovies or ravioli with walnut sauce. For snacks, Paninoteca Pippilan’s (no phone, Via S. Erasmo, 1) crunchy Bonassola sandwich (Parma ham, cheese, tomato, arugula) is ridiculously addictive.

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Daytime in Bonassola is all about the beach: It’s wide, clean, public, and safe for even the tiniest bambino. For those who want them, private clubs have restaurants, changing cabanas, activities for kids, and daily and weekly rates. In the moonlight, fishermen cast from the cool, wet sand. The gorgeous Cinque Terre — now a national park — are easily accessible via a frequent light-rail train, a magnificent mountain road, and regular ferry service. The traditional way to see them, though, is to hike from town to town. (The hills along this coastline offer some of the best hiking and biking in Europe.) Sightseeing boats go to Portofino and Portovenere, and fishing, sailing, and other water sports are easily arranged.

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While there are better towns for shopping (Milan, Rome — this is Italy, after all!), Bonassola has its own treasures. Ferramenta Casalinghi (011-39-0187-813-786) and Maglione (011-39-0187-813-616) sell lovely Tuscan tableware and mortar-and-pestle sets that are made from local marble.

Bonassola is about 59 miles from Pisa (American Airlines provides service with oneworld partner British Airways), 112 miles from Florence (AA provides service with SN Brussels Airlines), 137 miles from Milan (AA provides service with British Airways and SN Brussels Airlines), and 277 miles from Rome (AA operates seasonal service from Chicago and New York/JFK). For more flight information, visit www.aa.com; to learn more about Bonassola, visit www.prolocobonassola.it.