Bordeaux | California | SIMON HACKETT | BRIGHTVIEW VINEYARD BAROSSA VALLEY
Bottom's Up
by
Anthony Dias BlueAustralian wines have an unpretentious
charm that's immediately winning, so down under makes a great
place to start an exploration of the wide world of
wine.
It's well-known that the Australians are a unique folk, both
physically and linguistically. They are entirely capable, for
example, of putting a chokehold on a crocodile while simultaneously
splaying vowels wide open. They can climb Ayers Rock one morning
and take in Così fan tutte at one of the world's great opera houses
that evening. Their penchant for extremes has sometimes caused them
to be misunderstood, but Aussies don't really worry about their
image. They're too busy catching the surf from pristine white
beaches and throwing succulent haunches of emu onto the barby.
One thing Australians (and everyone else) take seriously is their
wines. Australian wines exemplify, even more than those of
California, the voguish "international style" - a style that's as
forward and friendly as the Aussies themselves. With a few
exceptions, you don't generally find hidden agendas or mysterious
nooks and crannies in Australian wines. Some sourpuss critics have
found them, if anything, too likeable. Maybe they're just
jealous.
The fact is, the easy-to-appreciate qualities of Aussie wines are
probably responsible for introducing more people to the pleasures
of the vine than, say, the more highfalutin wines of Bordeaux. Here
are three whites to get you on your way, mate.
SIMON HACKETT 2000 SEMILLON, BRIGHTVIEW
VINEYARD BAROSSA VALLEY ($15)
Semillon is a somewhat overlooked grape variety in most places
outside of Bordeaux,
France (where it partners with Sauvignon Blanc
in Sauternes). But it arrived early in the land down under,
possibly by way of
South Africa, and carved a distinct niche for
itself among Aussies. Although it may be difficult to believe now,
at one time Semillon was more widely planted than Chardonnay in
Australia. The grape makes fat, rich wines that, unlike many other
whites, are capable of aging very nicely in the bottle.
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