Brian Duncan | Joshua Wesson | Wine Club | Jenna Schnuer

All Wine-d Up

by American Way Staff
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Even die-hard red-wine drinkers get antsy for a bit of the white stuff once summer temps hit the soaring mark. Here's the latest in white wine, plus the openers to get you inside. - Jenna Schnuer

To help you pop your cork over white wines that'll send you swooning - without putting your credit card over the edge - several wine experts explain how to enjoy the latest trends for less than $20 a bottle.


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The Chameleon
More and more sommeliers are getting in on the Chenin Blanc action, says Brian Duncan, owner and wine director of Chicago's Bin 36 restaurants, adding that it "adjusts to whatever the dish is." One to try: 2004 Vouvray, Demi-sec, Yves Breussin ($14). It's "loaded with rich pockets full of floral- and honey-scented citrus, apricot, and golden-ripe apples."



Less Wood, More Grape

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"Wood is like makeup," says Joshua Wesson, cofounder and executive wine director of NYC-based Best Cellars. "When you apply it too heavily, you notice the makeup and not the person." One of Wesson's favorite whites is the unoaked 2005 Babich Chardonnay ($12) from New Zealand. Another oak-free and on the rise grape is Pinot Gris, says Eddie Newell, main wine buyer for the Wine Club in Santa Ana, California. A food-friendly wine, it "complements instead of overpowering." One to try: 2004 San Simeon Pinot Gris ($12).


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A Bit of This, a Bit of That
Blends are getting more popular every day, says Duncan. "They're versatile with food. Whatever the dish's strongest notes are, the grape with the greatest affinity gets pulled up." One to try: 2005 Jezebel Blanc ($18). The "incredibly juicy" wine made Duncan's "head spin off" when he tasted it.



Boxed In

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Box wines aren't bottom of the barrel anymore - even top vineyards are stocking store shelves with them. One box holds about four bottles' worth, and the wine will stay good for four to six weeks. Boxes are also easier to take to the beach. One to try: Dtour Mâcon-Villages 2004 (which, actually, comes in a tube), $37 (which works out to $9.25 a bottle).


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On the Rise
Torrontes, a Spanish grape now grown in Argentina, was "basically put on the planet to make all seafood taste even better," says Wesson. One to try: 2005 Crisol Torrontes ($9). "It's like biting into a Granny Smith apple," he raves.




Uncorking the Truth

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There's no need to struggle. We found four stylish openers that will help you get to the good stuff with ease.

If you've got the space and aren't one for the modern look, the old-world appeal of the Estate Combo Wine Opener with Stand - and the very-easy-to-use lever action - is hard to beat. (Stand not shown.) $95. www.josephgrace.net

Learn the how-to of using a waiter's corkscrew - and you'll never use anything else again. They're just so, well, cool. Oxo Steel's Waiter's Corkscrew has grippy-soft comfort and looks perfectly swank in a stylish bachelor pad. $12. www.oxo.com

Give Screwpull's Trilogy Table Corkscrew a few turns, and, like magic, the cork slowly climbs up and out of the bottle - requiring no upper-arm strength from you. The look? Chic elegance inspired by a spaceship. $25. www.screwpull.com

Metrokane's Rabbit Lever Vacuum Pump has been around for a while, but it's never looked this good. The new special-edition VIP set in polished chrome and black leather is, quite simply, sexy. And freakishly easy to use. $125. www.metrokane.com


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ISSUE: Aug 1, 2006
American Way Cover - 8/1/2006