Brigitte Weida | heart disease | cancer
A Gentleman’s Germany
by
Kevin Raub
Traditional Äbbelwoi taverns can be found all over town. These
colorful establishments echo Bamberg's brew pubs in decor (low
ceilings, antler-adorned walls) but up the ante in rowdiness.
Nowhere is that more apparent than at Apfelwein Wagner, one of
Frankfurt's most lively Äbbelwoi taverns. Here, you sit wherever
there's space, which is a great way to meet locals (read: local
girls). The apple wine is ordered by the Bembel (a traditional clay
jug) and is mixed with lemonade or sparkling water to cut the
sourness. Be a man, however, and drink it straight. The girls will
be impressed.
After a few here, you'll love apple wine, so head to Apfelwein
Solzer, a considerably quieter and less spacious apple winery that
has occupied the same spot on Bergerstrasse for more than 125 years
(the Solzer brand itself dates back to 1679). Traditional apple
wine accompaniments - like Handkäse mit Musik, a curdled quark
cheese doused with vinegar, onions, and caraway seeds - are served
up here amid historic German bric-a-brac and antiquated
photographs. Like Bamberg, the Bembels keep coming until you scream
"Onkel!"
For a happy medium between large and touristy and small and
historic, check out the one-woman apple wine show at Im Blauen
Bock. Here, Brigitte Weida serves up ladle after ladle of her
beloved poison from a giant Bembel front and center. Locals can get
raucous a few apples in, but there are considerably fewer people
than at Apfelwein Wagner, so if the Bembels start flying, you'll
have more space to run. Weida scribbles your check on the back of a
coaster when it's time to go.
Not that you need an excuse, but Frankfurters actually believe
apple wine is good for you. It's said to ward off heart disease,
cancer, and high cholesterol. That logic dictates that if you down
enough of it, you can erase the ill effects of your cigarette
habit, your years of broccoli neglect, and your impeccable taste
for filet mignon. Of course, your liver will be shot, but you have
to die of something, right?
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