before you go: if you want to explore the ruins properly,
set aside a week, because of the time required to travel to and
from major airports, and from site to site. get a hepatitis a
vaccine and make sure you're up-to-date on all other immunizations,
particularly tetanus. pack strong sunscreen and insect repellent,
and bring a lightweight, long-sleeved shirt and long pants for
further protection from the near-equatorial sun and mosquitoes.
also bring good walking shoes or hiking boots.
how to get there: from cancun's airport, rent a car and
drive about five hours south along highway 307 to bacalar or
chetumal. or fly into belize city and take a first-class bus (call
novelos bus line, 011-501-2-77372, or take a taxi to the bus
terminal) for the four-hour ride north to chetumal. rent a car
there for excursions into the jungle.
taxes and tolls: if you fly into belize, you'll pay a $10
tax to leave the country, and pay another $8 tax before you cross
back into belize. also plan to pay a $6 tariff to get into the
calakmul biosphere reserve, and another $2 to enter the ruins
themselves. other ruins cost between $1.50 and $2 to enter. -
where to stay
in chetumal, the
holiday inn ($55; 011-52-983-50400) is
predictably tour-ist class and has a traditional mexican breakfast
buffet. plus, you can rent a car in the lobby. hotel los cocos
($50; 011-52-983-20542) down the street also has a restaurant, bar,
and car agency.
near calakmul, the only accommodations are in the
chicanná
ecovillage resort ($88; 011-52-5-705-3996). luckily, it's quite
nice; 45 rooms are built in the mayan style with palapa roofs, and
the pool makes a refreshing post-ruins spot. the
food at the hotel
restaurant is good (if overpriced), and there's a bar. there's no
phone on the property, though, so forget about checking voice mail
or e-mail.