Carlo Colla | Bricco Asili winery | Tenuta Roncaglia | Piedmont

lineages going back hundreds of years in the wine trade. The name Colla carries quite a resonance in Piedmont. Back in 1703, Carlo Colla was working as a winemaker in the Langhe hills. His 20th-century descendant, Beppe Colla, became the driving force behind the highly regarded Prunotto estate when he purchased it in 1956. Three centuries after Carlo Colla's time, Federica and Tino Colla founded Poderi Colla in 1994.

Tenuta Dardi Le Rose is one of the three separate estates operated under the Poderi Colla umbrella (the others are Cascine Drago near Alba and Tenuta Roncaglia in Barbaresco). The 18-acre Dardi property lies in Bussia, which was already a historic area for the Barolo region when it was mentioned in a text dating to 1880.

The 1996 has polished tannins and beautiful red fruit notes. By the time you read this, the stellar 1997 should also be available at your local wine merchant.

CERETTO BRICCO ASILI 1998 BARBARESCOO ($89)

Barbaresco was once considered the little sibling of Barolo, but in the hands of master winemakers it can be just as convincing an expression of the Nebbiolo grape as its big brother. Ceretto owns or controls several vineyards in both Barolo and Barbaresco, so its winemakers tend to make these two wines in a similar style.

At its Bricco Asili winery, Ceretto pioneered what has become the contemporary style for Barbaresco: stainless steel fermentation, shorter maceration time, and less wood aging, all of which preserve the natural finesse of the Nebbiolo grape. Bricco Asili was one of the first examples in the region of a vinification facility right in the vineyard, a true estate winery. The winery makes two other vineyard-designated Barbarescos as well.

This lovely stunner, from Bricco Asili's own estate vineyard, is racy and long with fleshy, rich plum and cherry fruit. It's as elegant, pure, and resonant as Italian wine gets.

CASTELLO BANFI 1996 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ($54)