Carlos Pulenta | El Trapiche | Palermo Hollywood | cattle farmer

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Lady Of The Night

by Kevin Raub
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As I take the first bite of my bife de lomo, a popular beef cut served at the traditional steak house El Trapiche, located in the trendy Palermo Hollywood district, I think to myself that I must have died and gone to heaven. Doused with chimichurri, a mouthwatering accompaniment of many variations, frequently made from parsley, garlic, hot peppers, bay leaves, oregano, basil, and vinegar, the dish could turn any vegetarian into a cattle farmer by meal's end.

Argentines actually eat more beef per capita than any other people in the world - nearly 40 pounds per person per year more than Americans - so any trip to the country is sure to be a diet killer (though Atkins would have been proud). The local populace obviously knows a good thing when it's got it and sees little reason to eat much else. One dinner at the right parrilla (Trapiche, La Brigada, La Cabaña - there are more than 10,000 to choose from) and you'll see little reason to argue.

That night, I lay my head down at Buenos Aires's newest and hippest digs, the Faena Hotel+Universe, where Philippe Starck has created an übermodern Imperial-style design hotel - it's dripping with sultry reds and rich blacks - inside a former grain warehouse in Puerto Madero Este. I fall asleep wondering: Can one survive on Malbec and beef alone?

Mendoza
I arrive at Carlos Pulenta's brand-new boutique winery in the Vistalba district of Mendoza's Lujan de Cuyo wine region - the oldest grape-growing area in this high-altitude wilderness - long after the sun has set over the Del Plata range of the Andes, which cuts across the western outskirts of Mendoza. But this is okay, as Pulenta, an Argentine wine legend, has two beautifully appointed rooms available to visitors at his dream winery (one of the few in town not funded by foreign investments).


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ISSUE: Dec 1, 2005
American Way Cover - 12/1/2005