American Way Cover - 2/15/2001

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chilean navy | Wellington | marine biologist | diver

Fighting The Fu

by Paul Goldsmith


contact info
earth river expeditions, (800) 643-2784; www.earthriver.com
length: 10 days
rate: $2,500, departing from puerto montt. this is an all-inclusive price, virtually everything you'll need - transportation, meals, lodging, wetsuits - is provided. any exceptions (clothing, certain types of gear) will be clearly outlined by earth river.

visiting puerto montt


if you've got some free time in puerto montt, here are some suggestions on what to do and where to stay.

what to do
feria artensanal: walk along this marketplace and discover some of the finest handcrafted merchandise in chile. choose from chilean wool sweaters or handcrafted leather, but make sure you bargain. chilean merchants are sometimes insulted if you pay full price.

angelmo market: follow the feria artensanal and you wind up in the place to find the tastiest (and stran-gest) seafood in south america. fishmongers in wellington boots hawk fresh chilean machas (razor clams), cholito (huge mussels), and locos (giant abalone) piled in among the prawns and spiny sea urchins. each merchant also offers his or her own brand of caldillo, a thick, steaming seafood stew, made of boiled potatoes, sausage, and whatever the day's catch might be.

centro de buceo: care to see the catch of the day before it's caught? just head over to puerto montt's premier dive shop (011-56-65-263939); e-mail
jeolivos@telsur.el). jorge olivos, a marine biologist and former diver for the chilean navy, is the region's top dive guide and will show you the abundant aquatic life in southern chile.

where to stay
the bright yellow viento sur (011-56-65-258700), part imposing fortress, part quaint victorian home, sits on a hill above the city and offers majestic views of the harbor. this small but comfortable inn boasts a fine restaurant complete with oak-paneled bar, and sauna. if you get homesick, just walk down the hill to cybercafe mundosur (011-56-65-295415) and enjoy a fresh cup of coffee while surfing your favorite web sites and e-mailing friends. -


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