Kyra Sedgwick, star of The Closer and next
month's The Game Plan, wanted adventure. She and her
family found it on an eco-friendly trek through
Costa Rica. . Photograph by Andrew
Eccles.
Kyra Sedgwick wanted something different, something exciting.
She and her husband, Kevin Bacon, and their two teenage
children, Travis and Sosie, were tired of lazy days on
Caribbean beaches that seemingly all of Hollywood had
discovered. "The decision was mine," she says. "I wanted to
make us go on an adventure vacation. We had been going to
Anguilla and staying at the Cap Juluca. We love Anguilla, but
it has started to become super-Hollywood. Also, I was not in
the mood to plotz. Do you know what plotzing is? Plotzing is
just sitting around, not doing anything. I was tired of the
plotzing. So I said, 'I want to go on an adventure vacation.'
And Kev said, 'What about Costa Rica?' And he really made all
the plans for it, as he always does. He's always the plan
guy."
And what a plan it was: two weeks in the wild, sharing
eco-friendly lodges with howler monkeys and toucans, far from
civilization and from Sedgwick's red-hot midlife stardom. She
recently won a best actress Golden Globe award for her role as
deputy police chief Brenda Leigh Johnson on the hit TNT series
The Closer, and next month, she stars opposite Dwayne
"the Rock" Johnson in the Disney football film The Game
Plan. Sedgwick's game plan in her personal life has long
been the same: "At home, I do all I can to tread lightly on the
earth," she has said in interviews. A few years back, she found
a way to incorporate that attitude into her family
vacations.
Between takes on her hit TV series, Sedgwick recounts for us
her environmentally sensible adventure vacation in Costa Rica,
where, with her family in tow, she rode the rapids, flew over
the rain forests, dusted off scorpions, and ran with the wild
pigs - while always avoiding the beaten path.
Okay, Maybe Just a Little
Plotzing
We first stopped in San José, the capital, which is where you
stop on your way into Costa Rica. We spent a night at a
beautiful environmentally aware hotel called the Rosa Blanca.
Absolutely beautiful. All wood, probably correctly culled wood
from different forests. Environmentally responsible in every
way. It is owned by this guy who was, I think, an artist in San
Francisco, and then he moved to Costa Rica. He had, I believe,
a small coffee plantation there, and he also raised flowers. I
think that's why it's called the Finca Rosa Blanca Country Inn.
We stayed in this room that has a circular wooden staircase in
it because we had the two kids with us. We slept upstairs; they
slept downstairs. It was almost like being at the front end of
a ship, a beautiful wooden ship. The windows look out on the
plantation, and it was very windy. The room has a beautiful
white canopy bed, and you can close yourself in while you're
sleeping.
Goodbye Hollywood, Hello
Scorpions!
Most of the time, we were on the Pacific side of Costa Rica.
We first stayed in Tiskita Jungle Lodge, which has maybe 10 or
15 cabins - no electricity, candles with an outdoor shower.
Everything is super basic but very pretty. Our room had a thin
mattress on a wooden platform. We had a beautiful porch that
looked out on the rain forest and ocean and had two hammocks.
We ate sort of camp-style - breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the
rain forest, looking at all the animals. At night, we went to
bed when the animals went to sleep, and in the morning, we woke
up early.
So we explored the rain forest during the day, and when we got
hot, we'd go down to the beach and surf. They have great surf
there, and a great surf instructor, and a really great guide at
Tiskita Lodge. You can hear the howler monkeys, which scream
day and night. We saw a three-toed and a two-toed sloth, which
live in trees and barely move, hence the word
slothful. If you see them move, it's a real monumental
moment. We saw a crocodile when we went into the rain forest.
We saw a bunch of toucans - the bird that's on the Froot Loops
box. We saw a scorpion in our room. Kev and I were getting
ready for bed, and I looked down at my arm, and I said, "Honey,
is that a scorpion?" He looked down and said, "Yes! That's a
scorpion!"
You get to this place where you're thinking the animals are
all your friends, and you're seeing them in their natural
habitat, and you're kind of just observing them and not
threatening them, and they're not threatening you. So all of a
sudden, the scorpion - and I'm thinking, Here he is! I'm in
his house, and I'm observing him, and he's observing me. We're
not going to hurt each other. Meanwhile, Kevin brushes the
scorpion off my arm and gets him out of the room. In the rain
forest near Tiskita, our guide told us, "The only thing you
have to worry about are wild pigs." Because they can be really
angry, and they can charge. I saw a herd of them, and I was
like, "Oh, honey, get the camera!" And the guide was like,
"Don't get the camera! Run!"
The amazing thing about the guides is that when you don't
think you're seeing anything, then, all of a sudden, they'll
stop and point. They'll see something from very far away, that
the bird stopped or that there's a howler monkey around. They
know all these amazing things about where they live. I mean, of
course they do. But it's pretty incredible to watch and to see
everything through their eyes.
Packing Light, Traveling Smart
You take a small plane from San Jose to Tiskita, and you can
have only 25 pounds of luggage each. That's a pretty small
amount for most people. I come to L.A., and my bag can be,
like, 70 pounds. So you really have to taper down. Plus, it's
so hot. Another thing that is so great about Tiskita Jungle
Lodge is it has a beautiful waterfall, with a cold pool where
the waterfall ends. It's so natural and so beautiful. It's a
little bit of a climb, but it's a great way to cool off after
being in the hot sun.
While we were in Tiskita, we went to Playa Pavones, which is a
beach with a famous left-hand surf break. What you can do is
ride the wave for three quarters of a mile and then get out and
walk all the way back to where your towel is. You can stay on
the wave for several minutes, and that's really unusual.
Muy Buen Equipo!
Then we stayed at Arenal Observatory Lodge, about three hours
northwest of San José. We stayed in a cabin called the White
Hawk Villa, really up high. Arenal is the name of the big
volcano there that's always erupting. It's rare to actually see
the volcano because there's so much rain. But we got to see it
because it cleared up. We took a lot of walks on the hard black
lava there. We had a great guide there too. There's also a rain
forest in the area. We went into the Arenal Volcano National
Park and did the zip-line tours. When you go on these zip-line
tours, you're basically as high as the clouds. There's what
they call a cloud forest, because you're so high up. You go
along the canopy, which is the top part, of the rain forest.
It's really incredible and terrifying. On these zip-line tours,
there's a wire hanging over two mountaintops, and it runs over
the tops of the trees, the top of the rain forest. And it's a
whole tour. You go on eight or nine of these zip lines. You're
really high; it's terrifying. My daughter wasn't heavy enough,
so the guide had to go with her. Otherwise, she would have sort
of gotten stranded halfway through the zip line, because you
have to have a certain amount of weight to make it to the other
side.
We also did some white-water rafting, which was awesome. We
had this really great guide who took us down to white water.
Every time we made it over a particularly difficult pass, where
there was actual big white water, he would have us raise our
oars and say, "Muy buen equipo!" which basically means, "Yay!
Good team!" Like we're all a team and we made it through. I
like that sentiment. My kids made fun of me because I could
never say it right. We did it for weeks after we got home.
There's a whole Costa Rican sentiment that's sort of like,
"Enjoy your life. Don't sweat the small stuff." And that's what
I came away with. And also, of course, as I do on all these
environmentally correct - or, at least, intelligent - vacations
we've been taking lately, [I realize that] it's not our earth.
We share it with millions of species and different kinds of
people, and we owe it to everyone to do better in every area
environmentally.
Another thing we did in Arenal was take a three-hour bike ride
that, when I look back on it, was so incredibly dangerous. It
was pouring rain, first of all, and when you're in a place
where it rains so much of the time, people don't stop their
lives when it rains. They continue on with the program. And our
program for that day was to take a mountain-bike ride along
these sort of back roads around the Arenal Volcano National
Park. We would go up and down really steep hills - rocky, steep
hills - on our mountain bikes, and it was pouring rain. My
youngest was 10 or 11 at the time and really small. The idea
that I let her do this bike ride … and then we went on the
highway for about an hour, with pouring rain and people
screaming by on the highway. I was thinking, Is this
dangerous? Yes, it is dangerous, but it's also that thing
you get, just like the thing with the scorpion, when you're in
another country, in another world: You think somehow you're
untouchable in some way.
Mother Earth's
Bathtub
We finally got to our ultimate
destination, the Ecotermales Hot Springs. It was a very
authentic place. It was so beautiful, especially after being
cold and rained on for three hours while biking. We got into
this hot spring, and we were all in heaven. Our hands were cold
and white. We were white-knuckling it to this place. And it was
cold and rainy and exhausting - the ride. When you arrive
there, you just peel off your clothes and leave them in
lockers. And you go in there in your bathing suit, and it's so
hot and lovely, and it's all natural. So you think, There's
no energy that's being wasted now. This is all just Mother
Earth heating our bones. It was so beautiful, and we just
sort of vegged out in there for a really long time. There were
hardly any people there.
Afterward, we had this amazing meal out on the patio that they
just brought out to us. It's so great not to have to order
anything. I get really stressed when ordering food. It makes me
crazy. So they just come out with these hot, fresh corn
tortillas with delicious fish and some chicken and black beans
and rice. It's just so great. It's amazing.
Back to Civilization
After that, we went to the Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at
Peninsula Papagayo. As far as I'm concerned, you might as well
go to the Four Seasons in Miami. All I kept thinking was,
Why aren't we back at our little lodge where we had to
rough it, where not every single private school student from
New York City who's come to Costa Rica for his or her family
vacation is?
The drive from the Caribbean side to the Pacific side
takes about four hours. It's really, really hot and wet and
moist on the Caribbean side, and as you get to
the Pacific side, it gets drier and drier, and you feel
your skin shrivel up because there's no more moisture in the
air. And then when you unpack your clothes, everything feels
wet. It's not really wet, but it holds the moisture from
the Caribbean side. We went to another famous surf town,
Tamarindo, two hours away. We went to a restaurant that was
very close to the beach. There was a real pig outside the
restaurant, tied up. An expat from the United States, and there
are a lot of them in Costa Rica, owns this very, very old,
very, very big pig, and he is beautiful. And the Bacons took a
picture with the pig. The name of the restaurant is Stella Fine
Dining, and that might very well be the name of the pig.
Low Crime, High
Literacy
One final story? On our way to the
Four Seasons, we were stopped on the road by what are called
agouti. They kind of look like a cross between a rat and a
possum, and they're really prevalent in Costa Rica. We had to
stop the car because there were like a hundred in the road.
When we stepped out, they licked our hands and sort of halfway
crawled up our legs, trying to get food. That was kind of fun.
They're a little freaky looking. If you were to come to New
York having never seen a pigeon before, you'd think, Oh,
look at the pigeons! Aren't they beautiful? Agouti are
kind of like pigeons.
The people in Costa Rica are so very nice. They love their
country. There's very little crime there. In fact, they
abolished the army, I think, back in 1948. And instead, the
government puts all the money that they used to put toward the
army into teaching people to read and into education. It is one
of the most highly literate countries, I think, in the
world.
My kids were totally into it - they are totally into the
adventure. We went to Thailand the next year. And then this
last year, we went to the Galápagos. So we do a lot of these
adventure vacations. Now we're sort of trying to go for the
ecotourism kind of thing. Because I don't want to go places and
use twice as much water as anyone living there because I'm
staying in a hotel that washes the towels and sheets every day.
You know, I don't want to go to a place and mess it up. I want
to go to a place and observe what's beautiful about it, and
leave and not have tread too heavily on the landscape.
she said …
where kyra
sedgwick gets closer to nature in costa rica
lodging
arenal observatory lodge, expensive,
011-506-290-7011,
www.arenalobservatorylodge.com
finca rosa blanca country inn, expensive,
011-506-269-9392,
www.finca-rblanca.co.cr
four seasons resort costa rica at peninsula
papagayo, very expensive, 011-506-696-0000,
www.fourseasons.com/costarica
tiskita jungle lodge, expensive, 011-506-296-8125,
www.tiskita-lodge.co.cr
dining
stella fine
dining, expensive, 011-506-653-0127,
www.stella-cr.com
sites
arenal volcano national park, 011-506-461-8499,
www.arenal.net
costa rica sky adventures, 011-506-645-5238,
www.skytrek.com
eco thermales hot springs, arenal,
www.arenal.net/tour/eco-thermales-hot-springs
playa pavones, 25 miles south of golfito
we said ...
where we get closer to nature in costa rica
lodging
grand hotel costa rica, san josé, moderate,
011-506-221-4000,
www.grandhotelcostarica.com.
dating back to 1930, this historic hotel has housed everyone from
john f. kennedy to
julio iglesias. they are among the many notables
who have enjoyed the hotel's magnificent neoclassic architecture
and convenience to the national theater, national museum, national
herbarium, and other attractions.
lapa rios, playa carbonera, expensive to very
expensive, 011-506-735-5130,
www.laparios.com. nestled in a
1,000-acre nature reserve, the lodge at lapa rios could be pictured
in the dictionary under
eco-friendly, as it employs people
from the local community and everything from the bamboo furniture
to the palm-thatched roof is constructed from all-natural native
materials.
dining
bread &
chocolate, puerto viejo de talamanca, inexpensive,
011-506-750-0051. need a morning pick-me-up? head to this
delightful bakery/café for a hot cup of coffee, a heaping plate of
french toast or cinnamon-oatmeal pancakes, or for another hearty
breakfast bite. it's a good choice for lunch, too, and everything -
right down to the mayonnaise - is made on the premises.
playa de los artistas, montezuma, inexpensive to
moderate, 011-506-642-0920,
www.playamontezuma.net/playadelosartistas.htm.
waves lap the sand as you savor
mediterranean specialties like tuna
carpaccio, wood-oven pizzas, and fresh focaccia at this blissful
beachfront italian restaurant. throw in the gentle breeze,
flickering lanterns, and a couple of bottles of wine, and you might
just od on romance. note: the restaurant closes for several weeks
during the year, so call first to make sure it's open.
outdoors
jesse’s samara beach surf school, nicoya, 011-506-656-0055,
www.samarasurfschool.com. we can’t think of anywhere we’d rather learn to hang ten than on the fantastic breaks of costa rica. and we can’t think of anyone we’d rather have teach us than former southern california surfer dude jesse and his beautiful daughter, sunrise, who also lead surf safaris in their mercedes-benz unimog all-wheel-drive cruiser.
la paz waterfall gardens, vara blanca, 011-506-225-0643,
www.waterfallgardens.com. we admit it — we’re suckers for waterfalls. that’s why we love this spectacularly scenic cascade-laden sanctuary, complete with a butterfly observatory, hummingbird garden, trout lake, and serpentarium.