David Arnold | New York City | French Culinary Institute
6 C. Liquid Nitrogen, 3 Tbsp. Meat Glue, 1 Sonic Wave Blaster
by
Josh OzerskyIn talking to all these geek-gourmet enthusiasts, I am excited but
also a little depressed. Isn't there any way that these techniques
could enter my daily life? Are centrifuges, immersion baths, and
test tubes a necessity to taste the fruits of applied science in
the kitchen? I took my question to one of New York City's
preeminent geek-gourmet gurus, David Arnold of the French Culinary
Institute. Arnold is a boyish-looking man in his thirties who calls
to mind a high school science nerd from general casting, right down
to his short haircut and mismatched shirt and tie. He is intensely
energetic, curious, and enthusiastic about everything. And it is in
Arnold's home that I finally see geek gourmet in action in a
seminormal setting. Arnold's home kitchen, though not large even by
New York City apartment standards, has been completely refitted,
modified, and customized. But, for the most part, it's an ordinary
kitchen - only far more efficient.
There's a six-gallon deep fryer and a mortar and pestle. A
restaurant broiler, bought at a going-out-of-business sale, is
hooked up to the oven; the range has a double-valve system for
better control. The sink is six feet long, covered with sliding
cutting boards and equipped with double-powered cleanup jets that
are powered by foot pedals with an extralong cord to give complete
free play. Carbon dioxide tanks power a seltzer fountain. But the
most conspicuous piece of equipment here is Arnold's espresso
machine, to which he evinces an almost fanatical devotion.
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