American Way Cover - 3/15/2004

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Don | Richard Brown | professional chef | food

A Cabin In The Woods

by Ken McAlpine

"I'd rather stop, get off my bike, and eat a piece of fried chicken," he says.

Since Don is in charge, we do precisely that, spreading a red-and-white-checked tablecloth and picnic lunch across the ground one afternoon. We also snarf double-chunk cookies and hunks of chocolate. There are plenty of healthy eats, too; enormous green salads at dinner and blueberry walnut pancakes for breakfast. In fact, there is plenty of everything to eat, all of it prepared by Richard Brown, a professional chef who also happens to ride a mountain bike as if he were born on it.

You can bike between the 10th Mountain Division Huts on your own (hut reservations are required), but sans guide you have to bring your own food, cooking on the huts' wood-burning stoves and using the ample kitchen utensils provided. Paragon's $1,660 price tag for the five-day Holy Cross Wilderness trip might seem steep until you arrive ­wobbly-legged at the hut and someone else is splitting kindling and preparing a gourmet meal in the fast-chilling night.

More importantly, guides, by definition, know where to go and what to do. Don and Richard point us down hidden single-track trails, where the experienced riders in our group fly over the devilishly rutted, rock-strewn trail as if it were Zambonied ice, and I make my deliberate, teeth-clacking way via liberal application of the brakes. They know places to fly-fish, and happy streams where we dip our faces into cold, clear rejuvenating water and then lie back on sun-warmed rocks. In the evenings, we take hikes through the darkening woods, the undersides of circling hawks catching the last of the gloaming light. On warm nights we sleep out under the stars, persuaded by Don's irrefutable logic.

"We don't sleep out enough and we don't dance enough," he professes.



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