We pushed off again, the day's rapids behind us, and drifted leisurely for the rest of the afternoon until we reached the cave camp. The second of Earth River's camps on the Fu, the cave camp is a natural, adult-size playground. Like a grown-up version of a tree fort, it's the type of never-never land that would make Peter Pan and the Lost Boys jealous. Located in the rocks above Zeta, the river's meanest rapid, and one that for safety's sake we chose to avoid, the cave camp takes its name from the huge granite overhang that serves as the main sleeping area. Aside from the novelty of sleeping in a cave, the camp also boasts miles of trails, smaller private stone shelters, natural stone hot tubs, tunnels, alien rock formations, and beautiful crystalline pools with huge German brown trout in plain sight. Not to mention a small mountain climb and ropes course designed by renowned rope course designer Paul Wolf.

I opt to skip sleeping in the cave with my fellow travelers and instead set my sleeping bag up on a flat rock directly above Zeta. I sit staring up at the biggest full moon I've ever seen. When I finally tire of counting craters, I close my eyes and drift off, the booming Fu singing me to sleep. AW          


stephen mahan is a new york-based travel and adventure photographer whose work has appeared in condé nast traveler and national geographic adventurer magazines.
getting there
to get to the pristine banks of the futaleufu, travelers need to start by getting to santiago (american offers daily nonstop flights from several major cities). from santiago, lan chile (a member of the oneworld alliance) has several daily flights to puerto montt, 600 miles to the south. from puerto montt, it's a short 25-minute flight to chaiten. earth river includes the latter flight in the overall price, and their comfortable bus meets travelers at the airport for the hour trip to base camp. -