Elvis Museum | A. Schwab Store | Preston Shannon | B.B. King''s Blues Club

While my father does somersaults in his grave, I seek authenticity at B.B. King's Blues Club, where the blues legend himself has been known to show up unannounced. The $7 cover hurts, but the sweet sounds of Preston Shannon's soulful wail and a Mason jar of Louisiana's finest draught, Purple Haze ($5.03), quickly eases the blow. If it's the best in contemporary blues you seek, this is the spot. I break for bed, however, before I end up emptying my pockets under a spell induced by Shannon's mesmerizing guitar licks. Along the way, I stop at the A. Schwab Store, a Memphis emporium like no other. Elvis once shopped here, but for what I'll never know. The inventory ranges from voodoo powders to handcuffs to religious icons. A. Schwab has been in business since 1876, but surely more for spectacle than practicality.

The next morning, I'm pleasantly surprised to find that the Sleep Inn provides breakfast. Score! Starbucks coffee it ain't, but the bagel does the trick. Then it's out the back door to catch Bus 43 - the Elvis Presley line straight to Graceland ($1.15). I've opted for the Platinum Package tour ($24.30 with AAA discount), which includes the mansion, automobile museum, Elvis' two airplanes, and the Sincerely Elvis Museum. Say what you will about Elvis' tastes, but you can never say he didn't know what he liked.

I'm shocked at the green shag carpet that lines the walls and ceiling in the Jungle Room, the 350 yards of multicolored­ fabric that covers nearly everything in the Pool Room, and the mirrored ceiling in the TV room. Graceland is a gaudy mess. The only thing missing is a big blue leisure van. Maybe that's in the automobile museum.