Even by national standards, Ommegang is considered a sort of Holy Grail for beer pilgrims. Press clippings from newspapers all over the country and from magazines such as Gourmet, Bon Appétit, Wine Enthusiast, SmartMoney, Saveur, GQ, and the randy lad mag Stuff cover one of the entry walls. New York State likely will feature the brewery prominently in its recently passed legislation to create an Empire State Brewery Trail program, a tourism campaign that promotes the state's more than 60 breweries. With the New York winery trails as its model, the program will fund signs for brew spots on the trail, vacation itineraries, and a "brewery passport" booklet with discounts and information on attractions. And probably a few boxes of "I NY Beer" bumper stickers.

FOR ONE STATE,
New York offers a world of vastly different vistas and cultural experiences - the idyllic Finger Lakes; the historic Leatherstocking region of the Hudson Valley; the craggy, camp-friendly Adirondacks; the bustling Big Apple; and the posh Hamptons. And almost all of these areas host a brewery or two. Which is why it's difficult to predict which breweries will make the cut and be included on the Empire State Brewery Trail.

Difficult, yes, but not impossible. I called George de Piro, known as Professor Beer (see professorbeer.com) and the brewmaster for C.H. Evans Brewing Company's Albany Pump Station, and he helped me assemble a pint-size look at the best places to knock back a beer in this great state (plus one famous inn with an astounding beer list). Consider it a temporary road map.

-Brewery Ommegang (www.ommegang.com; 656 County Highway 33, Cooperstown; 800-544-1809): "Everything they do is interesting, and some of what they make is incredible," says de Piro. "It's local, and they have a beautiful brewery." The third weekend in July, the brewery hosts Belgium Comes to Cooperstown, a beer and food festival with 100-plus beers, camping, food vendors, and live music.