food | Sam Wo | California Street | Golden Gate Park

Golden Gate Keeper

by Mark Seal


Where do you like to go for lunch?
There's Eliza's, which has great, not-full-blown Chinese food. It's on California Street. Oh, there's the very famous Ton Kiang, which is a dim-sum place. Among San Franciscans, it's huge - always crowded. That's on Geary Street and is just as good as anything in Chinatown. During the day, the food is brought by on different carts. "Shrimp? Shrimp with meat?" You say "Yes, please" or "No," and they leave the plate and mark it off on your check. One of the greatest waiters was at Sam Wo's. I don't think he's alive anymore, because he was pretty old when I was in college. He was very abusive, and he would say, "Water's not for you!" We would say, "What's the special tonight?" "Everything is special! What are you, nuts? Why you think we call it special? But not for you! These people order better than you!" He was the equivalent of the Carnegie Deli waiters, except Chinese. "What are you talkin' about? Get out!"

What can you do outdoors?
You can do anything outdoors. If you sail, you have a bay. If you ride bikes, you can rent bikes and go over the bridge. If you need to buy a bike, there's City Cycle and Bicycle Odyssey. The bike paths in Marin are huge. You can ride Golden Gate Park. Walking around the city is great. There's hiking in Marin, at Mount Tamalpais State Park. You have to be careful at the beaches because there is usually a big, heavy current, and the water is really cold.

What's the famous Haight-Ashbury district like these days?
The Haight is a weird combination of kind of old head shops and kind of new clothing stores. But it's more for young people. There's a great clothing store called Villains. There's a store called Giant Robot that sells Japanese toys. There's True, which is a great store that sells almost what you would call urban wear. There's another great bookstore, the Booksmith on Haight.

What about Castro?
Castro has one of the greatest old movie theaters left in the city, the Castro Theatre, where they do a lot of retrospectives. It's just a gorgeous old theater. Here's an example: They'll do silent movies with the accompaniment, with the score, a guy playing the organ. As the big theaters die off, to go and see a movie there, especially an old movie, is really amazing.


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