Yet visitors often think places like Carcassonne and Albi are too
distant or too difficult and time-consuming to discover. Without
the trains they may well be. But think of the trains as a
high-speed shuttle that extends your flight to
Paris to virtually
every corner of the country. The French TGV system and a web of
smoothly functioning regional lines constitute a railroad network
of nearly 20,000 miles in a country smaller than
Texas. France's
train service ranks right up there with bread and bistros as part
of the national
patrimoine, the country's heritage. In
addition to the handy TGV terminal at the airport, there are a
half-dozen major train stations in Paris, most of which are not
only functionally easy, but eye-pleasing giant walk-in sculptures
of iron and glass. The French appreciate their stations; many have
been held for posterity by painters such as Monet, Manet, and
Caillebotte. But amid all this adoration, this is perhaps a good
time to point out to the baggage-laden that while French train
technology is 21st century, the availability of escalators is
several steps behind, and many train stations present stairways to
be overcome. However, once you're on board, a relaxing train ride
away from your arrival at CDG leads to all kinds of inviting
outposts.
Think about Tours and the châteaux-studded Loire Valley, or Avignon
and southern
France, the Bordeaux wine country, or Montpellier,
gateway to the Languedoc's hilltop souvenirs of centuries of
religious wars. The TGV urges you to "take the time to go fast."
And the speed, comfort, and quiet of the trains, combined with
frequent departures, indeed make getting around the country easy
and stress-free. Let's take a tour.
Massive as they are, the TGVs leave the station politely, on time,
and with barely a shrug or a sigh. They are soon rushing through
France at 186 miles an hour, but you are gliding. Vineyards,
farmhouses, green pastures dotted with smudges of sheep or
snowflakes of white Charolais cattle slip quietly past the large
picture windows. Everywhere are tiny hillside villages, church
steeples, and, always, more vineyards.