Germany may be better known for its brazen and brassy beer
festivals, but the country also boasts hundreds of wine-harvest
celebrations - some are small-scale gatherings in medieval
villages, others are full-blown festivals showcasing thousands of
wines. (For information, contact the German National Tourist office
at 212-661-7200.) Wurstmarkt is the granddaddy of these festivals,
and Pfalz wines rule.
The wines of Germany's Pfalz region tend to be some of the most
expressive. Bordered by Rheinhessen on the north and
France on the
south and west, the Rheinpfalz's vineyards sweep across a tranquil
land for nearly 50 uninterrupted miles and produce more wine than
any other region in Germany. The northern half of this region is
home to some of the best vineyard sites. The villages of
Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg are well known for
Riesling wines that combine substance and finesse. From any
roadway, this bounty, row after row of vines, is breathtaking for
miles. For a higher vantage point, ride the massive Ferris wheel, a
focal point of the Wurstmarkt spectacle. The extraordinary height
shows the vineyards leading all the way back to the Feuerberg
mountain.
Attending Wurstmarkt is as easy as catching a flight to Frankfurt,
and then taking the less-than-two-hour trip by rail to Mannheim
(see The Train Thang, page 68). Mass transit is the only way to go,
because for two weekends each September, Bad Dürkheim, a town of
20,000 or so residents, explodes with 600,000 joyous visitors,
making parking a challenge. Just visualize the view from above, the
miles of cars from every direction, slowly approaching Bad
Dürkheim. It no doubt looks similar to the "if you build it, they
will come" closing scene in Field of Dreams. Like I said, take the
rail.
The local train connecting from Mannheim conveniently terminates
near the festival's entry walkway. Then it's as simple as following
the other mass-transit participants headed toward the center of
things. X-markts the spot.