Germany may be better known for its brazen and brassy beer festivals, but the country also boasts hundreds of wine-­harvest celebrations - some are small-scale gatherings in medieval villages, others are full-blown festivals showcasing thousands of wines. (For information, contact the German National Tourist office at 212-661-7200.) Wurstmarkt is the granddaddy of these festivals, and Pfalz wines rule.

The wines of Germany's Pfalz region tend to be some of the most expressive. Bordered by Rheinhessen on the north and France on the south and west, the Rheinpfalz's vineyards sweep across a tranquil land for nearly 50 uninterrupted miles and produce more wine than any other region in Germany. The northern half of this region is home to some of the best vineyard sites. The villages of Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg are well known for Riesling wines that combine substance and finesse. From any roadway, this bounty, row after row of vines, is breathtaking for miles. For a higher vantage point, ride the massive Ferris wheel, a focal point of the Wurstmarkt spectacle. The extraordinary height shows the vineyards leading all the way back to the Feuerberg mountain.

Attending Wurstmarkt is as easy as catching a flight to Frankfurt, and then taking the less-than-two-hour trip by rail to Mannheim (see The Train Thang, page 68). Mass transit is the only way to go, because for two weekends each September, Bad Dürkheim, a town of 20,000 or so ­residents, explodes with 600,000 joyous visitors, making parking a challenge. Just visualize the view from above, the miles of cars from every direction, slowly approaching Bad Dürkheim. It no doubt looks similar to the "if you build it, they will come" closing scene in Field of Dreams. Like I said, take the rail.

The local train connecting from Mann­heim conveniently terminates near the festival's entry walkway. Then it's as simple as following the other mass-transit participants headed toward the center of things. X-markts the spot.