Granny | Cape Cod | Tulsa | record player | Massachusetts

Cape Cod

by Eric Celeste
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Image about Granny

JUST BACK FROM:

I HAVEN’T TALKED to Aunt Patti in several years, not since Granny, her sister, began suffering severely from the effects of Alzheimer’s disease and consequently forgot who most of us were. Growing up, I saw her only when she stopped by Tulsa, Oklahoma, for a day or two and visited Granny; she always demanded beans and corn bread for dinner because they reminded her of home. Otherwise, I came to know her mostly through Granny’s memories. That’s not surprising, though, because Aunt Patti, better known as Patti Page, the Singing Rage -- one of the best-selling artists in music history -- was a busy girl.

Ever since I moved away and became a writer, I’ve actually seen Aunt Patti and talked to her more often -- interviewing her about career milestones and catching clips of her on cable television (every time the movie Elmer Gantry comes on, for example). But she’s always been with me. Her songs were often on the record player when I was growing up. I think I knew the words to “Mockin’ Bird Hill” before I knew the words to any Van Halen song. And when the songs were not playing on the record player, Granny would hum them while she did housework. Granny and her sister Virginia would sing with Aunt Patti at weddings when Aunt Patti was starting out, and once, they sang with her on The Mike Douglas Show in the 1960s. One of Granny’s (and Patti’s) favorites was “Old Cape Cod.” The first lines come to me still, at odd moments during the day, at least once a week: “If you’re fond of sand dunes and salty air/Quaint little villages here and there/You’re sure to fall in love with old Cape Cod.”

I think of this as I order lobster stew from Jake Rooney’s, a local favorite in Harwich Port, Massachusetts, on a clear day in the Middle Cape. The waitress smiles as she brings it to me. “This is my favorite,” she says. I nod and savor the lobster meat, which has been sautéed in butter, and the sherry cream broth. I talk to the patrons as we watch sports on the TV. That’s when my sin hits me: I’ve stopped at a place without a view of the sea.

This just won’t do. I’ve come to the curling peninsula of eastern Massachusetts that surrounds Cape Code Bay to experience the Cape myself, to see if its small-town seaside charm matches the ethereal quality of Aunt Patti’s tune: “If you like the taste of a lobster stew/Served by a window with an ocean view/You’re sure to fall in love with old Cape Cod.”
Sorry, Aunt Patti. No water in sight from my seat.

There are four distinct areas in the Cape: lower, mid, upper, and outer. I’ve chosen the mid-Cape region because it seems the best cross of the quaint villages I sought and the world-renowned beaches Cape Cod is known for. Consequently, the directions of the song’s first stanza are easy enough to follow. You can drive from the northern edge of the mid-Cape area, Cape Cod Bay, to its southern edge, the waters of Nantucket Sound, in about 15 minutes. In other words, in about an hour, I pretty much explore the “here and there” needed to complete my quest.

During my day of wandering the Cape, I check off most of what I need to do. “Quaint villages”? Sure, if you consider touristcentric small towns along packed two-lane roads quaint. “Winding roads that seem to beckon you”? Yes. I go off the main grid several times, although it seems as though the thing the snaking roads most beckon me to do is exceed the 30 mph speed limit. “Miles of green beneath a sky of blue”? Easy. See it. Check it off. “Church bells chimin’ on a Sunday morn”? Of course. I’m here on a Sunday, do a Google search for “Cape Cod church bells,” and end up at the Dennis Union Church. Check.

The best I save for last. I find a road that leads me to Paines Creek Beach. I stake out a spot and take in the salty air and check out the sand dunes, as required by my quest. I wait until the sun goes down. I watch the moonlight as it dances across the waters of Cape Cod Bay, just like the song says. All that is left is the refrain: I need to fall in love with the place.

And I do. Sort of. It is beautiful, really, and I can see why people come here every summer. But as I sit here, I can’t help but think I should be across the country, in San Diego, where Aunt Patti lives, or back in Tulsa -- somewhere with family. Because all I can hear is my granny humming her sister’s song.

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ISSUE: May 15, 2009
American Way Cover - 5/15/2009