as a
Beverly Hills makeover, and the largely untranslatable
Japan-ese terminology that describes the process is best left to
double PhDs in linguistics and biochemistry. Suffice it to say that
you don't have to understand the process in order to appreciate
sake. One of the more enjoyable new American sakes is NapaSaki.
It's the creation of Avery Goldberg, who also developed Mezzaluna
Vodka. The clever packaging, with a bottle reminiscent of a
Japanese peasant wearing a conical hat, makes this one a standout
on the shelf. When displayed on its side, the bottle resembles a
pointy-nosed fish.
Envision what you want on the outside, inside the bottle is a sake
that's soft and sedate, with subtle flavors and a subdued finish.
This one works well with East-West fusion cuisines, but with its
whimsical packaging, it would also make an excellent choice for
sushi parties. Hats off; bottoms up.
HAKUSAN PREMIUM SAKE ($7)
The Hakusan Sake Gardens in
Napa,
California, is one of the
pioneers of sake in the
United States. The facility is set on 22
acres, surrounded by lovely Japanese-style landscaping. If
contemplating the precisely raked gravel in the rock garden doesn't
clear your head, then step into the tasting room for another shot
of sake.
Hakusan's parent company, Kohnan, chose
Napa Valley for the project
because of the area's tradition of technological experimentation
with alcoholic beverages. It might take a few years, but Hakusan's
clearly hoping to be the Robert Mondavi of American sake.
Hakusan produces several styles of sake in Napa. These include a
delicate plum-flavored version and the full-flavored, sweetish
cooking sake known as mirin, which makes a great addition to
sauces. My favorite is the Hakusan Premium, which offers fruity
aromas, citrusy tones, and an off-dry finish. Serve it with a plate
of cracked crab for a Zenlike experience.
Y SAKÉ SNOW ($25)