Historical Museum of Southern Florida | Bayfront Park | Miami Art Museum | Gusman Center for the Performing Arts

Another worker approaches, carrying a 50-pound Columbian Red Tail boa constrictor in his arms. Hunter and Maddy dodge the invitation to let the boa lounge on them, but two young brothers gladly oblige.

We enjoy the birds of all feathers but are acutely attracted to the park's current celebrities, two diaper-clad, 20-month-old orangutan twins picnicking on the lawn. As we pass a pen of crocodiles, Michelle wonders aloud what the park must feed them. "Middle-age women," my teen son jokes indelicately.

We're tempted to linger, but a downtown museum that we're curious about opens its doors for free on Sundays.

The nine-year-old Miami Art Museum (MAM) and the adjacent Historical Museum of Southern Florida are part of downtown Miami's startling rebirth. Thanks to a massive five-year initiative aimed at redeveloping Miami's core, it has evolved in the past few years from an urban wasteland into a blossoming family excursion spot (as well as a thriving nightlife alternative to South Beach).

Bayfront Park offers 32 acres of green space to wander in, and its amphitheater hosts concert performances from the likes of Elton John to Rob Zombie. The Gusman Center for the Performing Arts offers worldwide cultural exhibitions and performances,­ and the 20,000-seat American Airlines Arena hosts NBA games as well as entertainment events. Nearby, a swell of weekend warriors washes over Bayside Marketplace, home to arts, crafts, and souvenir booths, as well as to outfits offering boat rides around the city. An influx of new residents with diverse interests has energized the downtown area, leading to a boomlet of restaurant and nightclub venues. The area also has an impressive selection of art galleries.