Jean Meyer | Neill Robb | stainless steel | France

in their finest clothes and headed off to chapel. (Check out Redbank's interesting Web site, too, at www.redbankwines.com.)

Fortunately, in this case, what's inside the bottle more than lives up to the impressive graphic design. Winemaker Neill Robb crafts this Pinot Gris in a distinctly Aussie style. Eighty percent of the grapes are cold-fermented in stainless steel for crispness; the rest are fermented in barrel and given partial malolactic for dense viscosity in the mouth. Lively citrus flavors play through the sweet, ripe fruit. Match this one with rich grilled fish such as salmon.

JOSMEYER 2000 PINOT GRIS LE FROMENTEAU ($34)

Alsace, in northeastern France, is the Holy Land of Pinot Gris. Along with other members of this region's varietal triumvirate - Riesling and Gewürztraminer - Pinot Gris scales heights here that Chardonnay only dreams about. But maybe I'm biased: You see, some of my favorite white wines come from Alsace, and I've been sitting in the Alsace cheering section for a long time. The current surge in demand for Pinot Gris should win these wines a lot more fans.

Founded in 1854, Josmeyer currently is run by Jean Meyer, who crafts his wines in an elegant, dry style. This particular bottle is in the winery's Artist Label series, a portfolio of varietals featuring Josmeyer-commissioned artwork on their labels. The whimsical painting on Le Fromenteau is by Hans Joachim Pietrula.

Sourced from the vineyards neighboring some of the notable Alsace grands crus, the 2000 offers a lovely com- bination of pure, tangy acidity and smooth, creamy fruit. It will improve in the cellar for several years.

LIVIO FELLUGA 2001 PINOT GRIGIO COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI ($22)