When Calene and I visited Banff on our honeymoon, it seemed that the only outdoor activity was hiking. But this time, we soon discovered a mountaintop gondola ride, hot springs, white-water rafting, mountain biking, a national historic site, shopping, and just plain people-watching. We opted to rent mountain bikes, and we spent a few hours bumping through the forest single file, keeping a sharp eye out for grizzly bears. Hey, the journey thus far had been one surprise after the other, so we wanted to be prepared. By the time we got back in the car and were headed down the highway, I found myself wondering and anticipating what lay ahead rather than staring at the map and dreading the miles between our current location and our hotel. All these years, I'd thought I knew how to road-trip, only to learn I'd been doing it all wrong.

AVOID THE KNOWN
The hotel for our second night was the rugged Simpson's Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, on the shores of mighty Bow Lake. It is an hour and a half northwest of Banff and 100 years back in time. When Jimmy Simpson, a red-haired mountain man, first camped at this location in 1898, he thought it the most beautiful spot in the world and vowed to "build a shack" there someday. Simpson did better than that. By the time it was completed in 1950, his lodge featured a stone-and-log construction and 25 very utilitarian guest rooms. Calene and I slept in a spartan room that offered a view of the glimmering lake. Looking outside the window, we could see the paw of an enormous glacier dangling from the cliffs ringing the frigid waters. The food in the Elkhorn Dining Room, where moose and elk heads were mounted on the walls, was nothing but gourmet. Entrées included fine Alberta beef and local venison, and the broad wine list featured vintages from around the world.