"I traveled to London a few years ago," says Sir John, with a hint of a smile, "and saw the ax and chopping block."

The 90-year-old baronet pauses a moment to let the grisly scenario sink in; then he gestures up the stairs, announces a cheerful "This way!" and adds, with perfect timing, "It's best if I go first."

Ireland prides itself on having a penchant for zany, cheeky humor. Its landscape is dotted with ancient historical castles, most of which typically feature some sort of contrived flavor for the tourists: medieval-themed feasts, suits of armor, actors dressed as court jesters. Castle Leslie doesn't have to bother with props or costumes, though. It's just naturally odd.

The hallways and rooms are filled with strange mementos, like Ireland's largest bathtub, a quill pen once used by Pope Pius IX "during his last days," a bronze bust of the governor general of the Philippine Islands, a 10-foot-tall toilet stall (family crest included), and Winston Churchill's christening dress, displayed in the main sitting room. And somewhere on the property, there's a landing pad for UFOs.