But the lodge's greatest allure was its isolation. There was not a phone or a TV in the room, and checking e-mail was out of the question. The greatest amusement of the evening was when a moose lumbered by outside - we all went out to have a look. At bedtime, we piled on an extra blanket to keep out the chilly night air, and we fell asleep listening to the sound of a cold Arctic wind battering our windowpanes.

There is utter simplicity in such a place, inducing the reflection that great road trips so often inspire.

I have to admit that left to my own devices, I would never have chosen the Simpson's Num-Ti-Jah Lodge. I would have made reservations at some more upscale place in Banff or even down the road in Lake Louise. And the same would hold true for our lunch destination the next day. From the outside, the Baker Creek Bistro looked like a camper's store. The food, however, was incredible - fresh, local ingredients cooked to perfection. There's a lot to be said for avoiding the known and taking a chance on character and charm.

TAKE THE BACK ROADS
Day three was the last day of our trip. We would head into Lake Louise and then drive back to Calgary. Rather than remain on the Trans-Canada and aim directly toward Lake Louise, we followed the slower but more beautiful Highway 93 as it meandered through the forest. We sacrificed speed but gained immeasurably in local charm. The smaller road twisted and turned, passing through dense thickets of pine and allowing us to see wildlife standing along the roadside. We lost all track of time and even a sense of the drive itself. Our banter was witty and knowing, a reminder of how much better we knew each other, and of how much our love had grown, since our honeymoon. I will forever remember that day - gliding down that road, my beautiful brown-eyed wife at my side, the music turned down low so we could talk.