Larry Levy | food | Los Angeles Lakers | sports venues

Inquirer

by American Way Staff

Adios, peanuts and crackerjacks. At more than 30 sports venues, including Churchill Downs and the homes of the Arizona Diamondbacks and Los Angeles Lakers, the luxury-box crowd eats from the plate of Chicago-based Levy Restaurants, the $325 million company headed by restaurateur Larry Levy. We talked with the man who brought toasted ravioli, sushi, plantains, and tuna tartare to the ol’ ballpark.

AW: How did you make the leap from white-tablecloth restaurants to ballparks?
Levy:
Like all great entrepreneurial achievements, it was a total accident. Back in 1982, the Chicago White Sox were struggling to sell their new luxury boxes. They thought a restaurant catering the food would help. We said no. Then they said we’d get the best seats in the house for the All-Star Game and the World Series. That hit the right button.

AW: Do you cook much at home?
Levy:
I don't cook, but I have a vision and a sense of what I want. I have a lot of confidence in my taste buds, and I can give word pictures of the flavors I'm looking for. If we're working on a sauce and I don't like the finish, I'll say put a little more smoke in it or spice it up. I like big, bold flavors.

AW: Do the players ever eat your food?
Levy:
We feed the players at most of our venues. Before every Lakers game, we feed [Coach] Phil Jackson and the team. He always has grilled fish.

AW: Next season you'll start serving at Lambeau Field in Green Bay. That just doesn't seem like a couscous-and-Cabernet place.
Levy:
There’s a great deal of wealth there, but it’s quiet, understated. We’ll be toning down some of what we do.

AW: Anything you've tried over the years that just didn't work?
Levy:
In the mid-80s we created Eurasia, which was P. F. Chang’s fifteen years too early. The foodies loved it but it never made a profit. We still use the tuna tartare and the angel-hair pasta with sesame-chili oil in some of the suites.

AW: What's your earliest memory of ballpark food?
Levy:
It was a hot dog at the old Sportsman’s Park in St. Louis. Late Forties. I remember not liking it. [Today] the basic hot dog is usually a sponsor, which can be a problem if it's not a very good hot dog. So we supplement with lots of variations. My favorite is the chicken Parmesan sausage.

AW: Surrounded by all this great food, how do you keep your weight down?
Levy:
I exercise fanatically every day. And I take the smallest bites you've ever seen.


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