American Way Cover - 9/1/2002

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Las Vegas | Overland Park | James Beard Society | American Restaurant

What’s Cooking?

by Elaine Glusac

The New and Notable From Top U.S. Chefs

KANSAS CITY, KANSAS: 40 Sardines, 11942 Roe Ave., Overland Park, (913) 451-1040
James Beard award winners Debbie Gold and Michael Smith, last at The American Restaurant, branch out to suburban K.C. with 40 Sardines. Their contemporary-American menu with international accents warrants the trek. An open kitchen and centerpiece communal tables encourage fraternizing over bowls of corn and green-chile chowder and platters of tamarind-glazed salmon with foie gras. Impressive, too, most entrees are priced under $20.

SAN FRANCISCO: Acme Chophouse, 24 Willie Mays Plaza, (415) 644-0240
Neighbor to Pacific Bell Park at Third and King, Acme pitches fine dining to baseball fans. Chef Traci Des Jardins assembles a roster of winning dishes with her signature emphasis on organic edibles. In addition to raw bar items, all the steakhouse classics are here, including steak tartare, iceberg lettuce wedges, creamy mac and cheese, and, of course, beef. An open kitchen and several sports-tuned TVs occupy spectators between innings.

LAS VEGAS: Craftsteak, MGM Grand Hotel, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S., (702) 891-7318
After recently earning the James Beard Society’s best new restaurant award for Craft in New York, chef Tom Colicchio spins off a Vegas version, Craftsteak. With emphasis on top-shelf ingredients from boutique farms and artisanal producers, the a la carte menu spans seafood, poultry, veal, lamb, pork, and beef. A raw bar, generous salads, and a variety of veggies please every palate. —



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