what to know: santiago sprawls along the mapocho river
against a backdrop of snowcapped peaks. downtown is a grid of
narrow streets and broad plazas where middle-class shoppers look
for bargains. most businesses have set up headquarters in the
eastern suburbs of providencia and las condes, attracting upscale
restaurants, galleries, and shops. the metro subway system links
almost everything efficiently and inexpensively, but only until
10:30 p.m. weather is warm in the southern summer
(december-february), cool in the winter (june-august), and heavenly
in spring and fall.
where to stay: the
hyatt regency santiago
(011-56-2-218-1234;
www.santiago.hyatt.com) has a
spectacular atrium, pool, health club, and top-notch japanese,
italian, and thai restaurants.
hotel carrera
(011-56-2-698-2011;
www.carrera.cl) is a classic
european-style hotel across from the government palace, with a
rooftop pool, gym, and restaurant.
where to eat: the greatest concentration of
international-class restaurants is in
el bosque. the
bellavista district, across the river from downtown, is santiago's
left bank - full of funky eateries, and a little rough around the
edges.
café melba (011-56-2-232-4546) serves up omelets,
bagels, and excellent light lunches in an airy cafe in el bosque
norte business district (you get free internet access with a cup of
coffee).
central market (no phone) houses a variety of
seafood restaurants, from simple stalls to the always-packed
donde augusto restaurant (011-56-2-672-2829).
zanzibar (011-56-2-218-0118) has happy hour on the roof and
serves dinner and drinks until late.
la ruta 66
(011-56-2-207-3944) dishes up world-class fusion cuisine and has an
excellent wine list. in addition to its gourmet entrees,
osadía (011-56-2-232-2732) features a wine bar in the cellar
and a table in the kitchen, for those who want to get close to the
action.
el otro sitio (011-56-2-777-3059), located in a
handsome old house in bellavista, proffers authentic peruvian food
(arguably south america's best cuisine); there's also a second
location in borderio.