The word tapashas become part of the
global vernacular. Yet, the true adventure of the
tapeo, a venerable social institution in Spain, just
can't be imitated, try as the rest of the world might. Chefs
elsewhere may make the dishes, and bartenders may pour the
wine, but only in Spain does the tapeo rise to an actual art
form. To partake is an almost sacred act, especially in the
capital city of Madrid. There, it's taken very, very seriously.
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Tapeo: The limitless ramble from bar to tavern,
during which one pauses just long enough in each to nibble a
meatball or two, munch a couple of garlicky shrimp, and try a
forkful of octopus before moving on to the next bar (and plates) of
choice.
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A TOUR
JUST FOR YOU
In Madrid, there's no
shortage of tascas for practicing
the art of the tapeo. Here are six
of our favorites.
1.
La
Venencia:an
oldworld Madrid watering
hole. Calle de Echagaray,
7
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2. Mesón de la
Guitarra:a cave beneath the Plaza Mayor. It often
has a guitarist. Cava de San Miguel, 13
3. Cervecería
Alemana:a popular sight that's located in what's
arguably Madrid's most famous area (Plaza de Santa Ana). Plaza de
Santa Ana, 6
4. La
Trucha:just like an old-time Andalusian tavern.
Manuel Fernández y González, 3
5. Casa
Carmencita:established in 1840 and once the
favorite bar of poet Federico García Lorca. Calle Libertad, 16
6. Taberna
Toscana:features stools that are hand-carved and
sausages that hang from the ceiling. Try the morcilla (blood
sausage). Plaza de las Cortes & Huer
Tapas-ing
101
1
Be prepared - Madrileños can eat a lot. Tapas may be small, but all
those teeny platefuls add up.
2
Madrileños stay out late, sometimes until dawn, grazing all the
way. The grand finale as the sun comes up? Churros and
thick-as-syrup hot chocolate for breakfast.
3
Tapeo outings can occur anytime, from the late afternoon to a 10 or
11 p.m. dinner, or starting after dinner and lasting all night.
4
Don't be afraid to join a crowded bar. You're always welcome,
especially if you're willing to try a local specialty like spicy
tripe or lamb's brains.
5
Don't sit. Most tapas-goers stand. (It's cheaper and more fun to
order at the bar.)
6
Order your drink and wait five minutes. Usually, the barman will
bring you something for free, perhaps some almonds or olives, to
whet your appetite.
7
Most bars proudly letter their tapas menu on the outside window as
well as display it at the bar. Don't hesitate to point if your
Spanish fails you.
8
Keep moving. No matter how much you love a place, the goal is to
hit as many tascas (tapas bars), to try as many diminutive
bites, and to down as many minidrinks as possible.
9 In
some bars, you can order your food in three portion sizes:
pincho (a mouthful), tapa (saucer-size), and
ración (a small plate).
10 Go
ahead, act like a local: Throw your napkin and olive pit on the
floor. If the bar isn't littered with napkin debris, something is
wrong.
11
At each place, you pay at the end of your tapas snarfing. In most
typical taverns, barmen charge you by your pile of plates or
toothpicks, adding them up with chalk on the bar.
Tapeo: The limitless ramble from bar to tavern, during which
one pauses just long enough in each to nibble a meatball or two,
munch a couple of garlicky shrimp, and try a forkful of octopus
before moving on to the next bar (and plates) of choice.
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10
Dishes to try
1. Queso
Cabrales: a blue cheese from
Asturias
2. Jamón
Ibérico: a cured ham
3. Boquerones en
vinagre: fresh anchovies sprinkled with
vinegar, garlic, parsley, and olive oil
4. Gambas al
ajillo: peppery, garlic-laden shrimp
5. Tortilla
Española: a flat potato omelet
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6. Pimientos de Padrón:
grilled small green peppers (Beware: Some are hot and some are
not.)
7. Pescaditos: tiny, fried
fish
8. Mojama: cured tuna
9. Pulpo a la gallega:
octopus, usually served on potatoes and sprinkled with
paprika
10. Setas: wild mushrooms,
usually grilled