Mali | Food | Africa | Sweezy Lake | frequent work travel

There’s No Place Like

by Sherri Burns and Chris Wessling
Image about Mali
Dorothy was right, after all. But if you can't be at home, here are some of your favorite next-best places to be.  Illustrations by Tim Bower.

The air puffer security scanner at Fort Lauderdale airport. After … having to go through sometimes incredibly long lines at security, to be pointed to the air puffer machine is a pleasure. Fifteen seconds of peace and the quick blast of air that covers you from head to foot just give me a nice little pick-me-up. - Charles Maurice, ­Hollywood, Florida

Slovenia. It is a very small country in Europe that very few people have ever heard of. It is part of the EU and also a member of NATO. My dad's parents came from there and met in America. We took a trip back with my dad and met 19 cousins. … Half the country is forest. It looks like the Sound of Music, with the Alps and beautiful meadows. I have traveled a lot, and I think Slovenia is an undiscovered gem. I am reticent to write about it, because everyone will want to go! Lake Bled is beautiful, and the customs are rich; the food is a mixture of Austrian, Hungarian, Italian, and Slovenian. My dad was a naval officer when I was growing up, and I lived in a lot of places, so I don't feel like I am from any one place, but Slovenia makes me feel like I have a hometown.
- Mark Dvornik, Lewisville, Texas

On an open sea in a sailboat with my wife. Many places will do, although if I had my choice, then the southern tip of Barbuda would do quite nicely. No phone, no radio, no TV, no newspaper, no computer connectivity … just the tranquility of the gently rolling waves, incredibly fine pinkish white sand of the distant beach, and the slowly sinking sun off to the western horizon. … It is quite delightful to trade in the hustle and bustle of the road warrior's existence for the enchanted silence of a warm Caribbean night, a hotel room for a cozy cabin, and a business suit for a pair of old shorts. Oh, and yes, that barefoot feeling of the deck under your feet cannot be replaced by any pair of fancy shoes, and I do not care if they have been custom-made by the best shoemaker in West End London. … A smile gradually replaces the ever-present frown, the whiteness of the skin vanishes in a matter of a day, and the hurried pace of life is only a distant memory. I wake up early in the morning not because I need to rush to the airport but because the ocean calls, the sails want to be filled with the trade winds, and there is yet another remote cove to be discovered just a little farther down the coast. Indeed, besides home, for me, there is no place like a sailboat on an open sea. - Zdenek Holy, Cary, North Carolina

Home. I have been in the military for over 24 years. It is my life. I've traveled around the world - Europe, Asia, Africa, the Middle East, and other areas. But all that travel, to places that many would describe as exotic, has never included the wonderful or popular locations depicted in your travel montage. As I thought about your essay question, my thoughts turned to my wife and family. My chosen profession, service in the U.S. Army, has caused me to be away from home more than I've been there. Having missed so many birthdays, anniversaries, graduations, first dates, first time driving a car, death of a beloved pet, etc., there is no place like home. Home, for me, has been and remains my foundation, my touchstone, and, in many ways, that exotic popular destination I look forward to visiting as often as I can. - Allen Batschelet, Harker Heights, Texas

Blue Pumpkin. It's my favorite café in Siem Reap, Cambodia. It had the most amazing mango smoothie I have ever tasted,­ and as soon as I sat down, a waiter materialized with a cool, white, peppermint-scented­ facecloth. In a country so humid that a minute outside causes even your eyeballs to sweat and the dust from the street to stick to your skin in a damp red film, the small pleasures at Blue Pumpkin were a welcome respite. I was in Siem Reap for a brief pilgrimage to Angkor Wat, an ancient Khmer temple complex considered one of the most intriguing and beautiful sets of ruins in the world. But even pilgrims must eat, so my daily routine included an early breakfast at Blue Pumpkin. On my final morning in Cambodia, as I sucked down my smoothie, a very young man swathed in bright saffron robes appeared at the café's entrance and stood silently, head bowed. A slender teenage waitress sprang off her stool, returning a minute later with a bulging grocery bag of food. She placed it in his hands. Without a word, she kneeled, bowing her head to the young monk's feet. He blessed her and then turned and walked quietly down the street. The waitress rose and strode quickly back to the kitchen. Glass frozen in midair, straw poised, I caught myself staring and looked down, but my mind was buzzing. Did the monk come every day? Where did he go next? Was this scene repeating itself in cafés all over town? Compared with the shooing away of the steady trickle of beggars at the door, the respect - not to mention the food - given to the monk stood out. When I looked up again, the noisy bustle of the street had consumed the silent void where monk and waitress had been, and the moment was gone. The bright colors of that scene, the monk in orange, the waitress in black and white, the food, the silence, the solemnity, the rote familiarity with which they played their parts - I still think about them. I have since read and learned more about the importance of Buddhism and Buddhist monks in Southeast Asia. The scene at Blue Pumpkin was a sliver of tradition in the middle of a country - in the middle of a continent - in flux. … But that one moment in Blue Pumpkin was timeless and beautiful, and I would give anything to go back. - Jane Lindholm, West Hollywood, California

My storage unit. I was on the road 90 percent of the time, so renting in California did not make financial sense. So I moved all my stuff into storage (furniture, memories, clothes, my life - all packed tightly into the end of the storage unit), and then I drove my little car in too. The routine is to land at the airport and then cab it to the storage unit. When I roll up that creaky door, there is no place like it. The stuff that defined and, who knows, maybe still defines, who I am, waiting for me. … I start my car and remember the freedom that having a car can give. As I open the sunroof and crank the tunes, I am free, and the six weeks out of town just seem to melt away. No feeling like it.
- Carol Skerrett, Oceanside, California

Atlanta's Coke Museum. There's a section in the museum that has fountain drinks of all the different types of Coke products across the world. You try one from India and wonder why they even have this drink, and then you try one from Italy and wonder why it's not in the United States. Overall, it's a nice place to relax and be surrounded by … fun people high on sugar from the drinks. It's like traveling the world through taste. - Phil Sheen, Chicago, Illinois

Mali, West Africa. Mali may sound a bit exotic. Most people don't even know where it is. "You mean Bali?" they ask. "Malawi?" No, Mali. I tell them it's where Tombouctou (Timbuktu) is located. This is usually the start of a long conversation. Most don't even know Tombouctou is a real city. Telling anyone I lived there for almost two years sparks a string of questions. Mali is Africa in its purest form and not for the weak-hearted. It is not the Africa of safaris or the beautiful coasts of South Africa. It is harsh, pungent, uncomfortable, fatiguing … but it is real, magical, lively, never boring, and a place like no other. Mali is 2,000 years in the past, clashing with the present. It is real, vibrant - a virtual museum of West African life. It is centuries of culture laid out before you. For me, there is no place like Mali, because this country taught me not only lessons in traveling but lessons in life. Mali taught me about different means of transportation: that four people could fit on a moped, that a donkey cart was often the most reliable means of transportation, and that pickup trucks with wooden benches in the back could easily hold 25 people and several goats, plus the driver and his apprentice. … Mali is one of the poorest countries in the world, and the people are easily the most friendly and warm-hearted. Does the World Bank or the United Nations ever measure those statistics? Although Mali is a place where children barely get enough to eat, a family in a village there would not hesitate to slaughter their last chicken or goat to be able to serve you, a perfect stranger, a meal fit for a king. Such generosity, respect for others, and undying joyfulness even in the face of the most bleak circumstances is a lesson I will never forget. - Charles Villalobos, Manassas, Virginia

On the road. I first jutted my thumb in the air to catch a ride soon after my 18th birthday. A rusty Buick pulled over. The driver was missing three front teeth, and the backseat was filled with what I imagine were all his belongings. I got in and kept my backpack on my lap. After a couple of miles, the driver leered in my direction and said he intended to rob me. I couldn't believe my first-ever hitchhiking experience was going so poorly. I always knew that traveling was in my cells. … During that first ride, I managed to get the driver talking. Soon he was laughing as I made fun of the local sheriff. When he dropped me off, still chuckling, he thanked me. This helped boost my travel confidence. Over the next three years, I hitchhiked 24,500 miles, crisscrossing North America. These travels as a "Roads Scholar" culminated with a trip overseas, where I spent time in Buddhist monasteries in Japan and in Korea. My travels didn't end there. I became a dancer and a teacher of contact improvisation. Soon, invitations from abroad began to arrive. Thirty years later, having traveled by plane, train, boat, and foot, I've planted my feet in 81 cities in 22 countries on five continents. … I often wonder how else but by being on the road can one have these experiences? Where else does one encounter the tea master revealing the three legends of the origin of oolong (dark dragon) tea and the correct way to slurp the tea to get the full flavor? How but by traveling could one experience the tango at a milonga at two a.m. in Buenos Aires? … Or see three men and a dog playing soccer in Vienna? (And the dog was good - he could kick and use his head to roll the ball to keep it to himself.) - Martin
Keogh, North Easton, Massachusetts

At the San Diego International Airport, there's this escalator. It's really a pretty ordinary escalator. It dumps thousands of people from the gate area into the luggage claim and transportation center every day. I'm certain there's one like it in almost every other airport, but this one, oh, it's special. Why? Occasionally, my wife will brave traffic and bring my two young children to the airport to pick me up. It's no secret that there is no truer joy then being welcomed home by loved ones. But, really, sometimes the anticipation of the reunion is just as exciting. The kids stake out a place near the bottom of the escalator, so it's really easy to spot them from the top. I scan the crowd for their faces, find them, and step onto my personal portal. If this escalator weren't there, I'd probably just run and hug … and be happy. But this escalator, well, it keeps you from running, and its leisurely pace allows me to slowly anticipate the hugs and kisses from my loved ones. It's 30 seconds of seeing my children be happy … just because they know I'm coming home.
- Charles Grisham, Oceanside, California

I know of a place that is so beautiful it can take your breath away. It is a place of contradictions, opposing senses, and ever- changing consequences. As I travel its land, I know that I will be changed in some remarkable way. Being there, my heart has no hiding place. The majesty of its mountains humbles me; the vibrant life of the forests sings to my senses. The gentle rain of the waterfalls washes me; the soft embrace of the verdant valleys nurtures me. All at once I am alone in the still, chilled desert night and in the heaving masses of the choked city. I can face dangerous creatures and be welcomed to the hearth of a stranger. I can swim with the sharks and stand on a hill at dusk among the swooping nighthawks. I can walk between the pungent fish stalls in a dusty open-air market and breathe the delicate scent of the frangipani carried on the eastern breeze. I can inhale the history of the ancient ones who lived before and fear their secret rituals. I can blaze untraveled paths with trepidation and swim in the warm acceptance of the ocean. In this land, I am master of my own domain and servant to its bidding. It demands that I care for it and protect it, for without it I cannot live. It is my lifeblood, my sustenance, my learning, my adventure, my mother, my earth. She is all we have, and as long as I live here, I will gladly reap the richness of her beauty and be grateful for her abundant gifts and never become complacent. There is no place like Earth. - Archie Tew,
Santa Fe, New Mexico

A window seat. Whether I'm traveling for business or for pleasure, the air blowing full throttle through the spinnable nozzle above my head lets me know that I'm headed someplace. Unlike many business travelers, who seem to not notice whether they're in midflight or accelerating through takeoff, I always have my face glued to the window. … I know I'm traveling. As the landscape fades away, I love the unique perspective that altitude­ gives me. I can see my home in relation to the office and the golf course. … I notice that my home, office, and golf course form a nearly perfect triangle. The window seat is the most wonderful seat on an airplane. … I feel like the captain, and as it was when I was a kid, I dream that I can fly! - Christopher Marlowe, Coral Gables, Florida

The golf course. Where else can you achieve success (a well-struck three iron …) and fail-ure­ (… that goes out of bounds) at the same time? Where else can you simulta­neously act like a child (sinking a long putt …) and a tyrant (… for a double bogey)? Where else can you both enjoy (sunny, balmy weather) and hate (bee stings) nature? Where else can you have so much fun with your kids and be like them for a short while? Where else can you teach them the lessons your father taught you, and have them listen?
- Willis ­Samson, St. Louis, Missouri

The cafeteria. Some may find the college cafeteria as a place to miss Mom's home-cooked meals. However, I see it as the realization of my dreams. A place full of food for my taking and for my liking. Sure, the meat may be a little shady and the fruit not so fresh, but the options are limitless. Because of this time-honored eating establishment, I can eat pizza for every meal of every day of every month of every year, if I so desire. But, Mom, don't fret, I do eat my vegetables, as long as they are serving french fries with the burgers. Now, the food is not the only factor ­involved in making a cafeteria. The people are perhaps even more important. When else do you get to eat with 500 other people your age and not have to clean up the frat house afterward? In fact, more things happen in the cafeteria dining area at dinnertime than in the student union at all hours combined. More pranks are pulled and more traditions are started. And this is why I went to college - for the wonderland that is called the cafeteria. Just don't tell my mother that. - ­David Ritter, Fremont, Indiana

Angel Stadium. Period. - Suzanne Spear, Irvine, California

Bangor, Maine. I stepped onto American soil for the first time in nearly eight months. I wanted to kiss the ground. I left for Iraq in March 2003 knowing little about what lay in store. I arrived in Kuwait, joined my U.S. Army unit (the 101st Airborne Division based out of Fort Campbell, Kentucky), and fought through jet lag to integrate into the preparations to cross "the berm" - the line dividing Iraq and Kuwait. Over the following­ eight months, my unit fought through the country, making stops in An Najaf, Al Hillah, Baghdad, Tikrit, and Mosul. It was sad to see the destruction of war but joyous to watch Iraqi citizens experience freedom for the first time. … By November 2003, it was my time to leave. I boarded a plane from Mosul to Kuwait and proceeded through the airports of Qatar, Cyprus, and Shannon. Our next stop was Bangor, Maine, and even Ambien could not induce sleep or hope to contain my excitement about being back in the United States, back to safety. In Bangor, we were greeted as heroes. Volunteers in the local community lined the jetway. They applauded, cheered, and offered us free phone calls to our loved ones. What a great homecoming! I wanted to kiss the ground. For this reason, Bangor, Maine, will always hold a special place in my heart. - Kevin Terrazas, Cambridge, Massachusetts

A good ballpark. By ballpark, I mean baseball stadium, with the local team in town and playing that night. From single-A minor-league stadiums to Major League Baseball franchises, there is no place like a ballpark. At a ballpark, you have a snapshot of the local customs as well as the comfortable feeling of belonging. From the sights, the sounds, and the smells to the way it makes me feel, there is no place like it. The local flavors come out in these stadiums. At Seattle's Safeco Field, there's the sushi-style Ichiro roll. San Diego offers Riptide Red, a great local microbrew; the Rockies offer Coors Fresh from the Rocky Mountains; and the Anaheim Angels have a great Knothole Club. There is always the old standby - a hot dog and a cold beer - that is offered at any stadium (and a guilty pleasure for me!). … The different songs and sounds from the stadiums ring loud and true. With the game on the line and the closers coming in, San Diego offers "Hells Bells," the Dodgers­ offer "Welcome to the Jungle," and the Mets play "Enter Sandman,"­ each ­electrifying the home crowd to no end. Being away from home is not easy, but when I can attend a baseball game, it lightens the load and takes my mind off work. It makes the trip seem shorter, and it also gives me a reason to travel. - Greg Giraldin,
Ladera Ranch, California

The inside of my suitcase. Whenever I fly in, after checking in to the hotel, wherever it is and at whatever time, the first thing that I find myself doing is opening up my suitcase. … Unzipping the bag and opening it brings out a unique bouquet of aromas that instantly turn an unknown hotel room into something that is almost subconsciously more familiar. There is the chlorine smell of home-washed clothes. The pepperminty and slightly damp smell of the toothpaste that long ago squeezed itself out of my grooming­ kit. The reassuringly familiar smell of leather belts and shoes. The inside of my suitcase, really, is home away from home.
- Jerome Jao, New Rochelle, New York

The cab to the airport. Regardless of how many hundreds upon hundreds of flights I've taken in my lifetime, I am still ­oftentimes giddy with anticipation of my next flight and my upcoming visit to what is still ­frequently a place I've never been to ­before. I think about the pleasantly maddening whirlwind that is the airport, the gleaming airplanes scurrying around the taxiways, and the thousands of travelers trying to get home or to visit a friend or family not seen in a long time. I wonder how the upcoming trip will go, what challenges or unique experiences will occur on this trip, what new sights I may see, what surprising conversation I may have with someone from a far different place than I came from. I think about the sights that I probably never would have seen otherwise, like a dusty ­central square in a small Texas town, the natural beauty of West Virginia, and a thunderstorm rolling across the plains of Nebraska. … I think, too, of the places I've already been because of my frequent work travel, and I'm thankful for the wonderful places I've visited as a road warrior. During my cab ride to the airport, my little corner of Chicago expands to a worldwide opportunity.­ - Mark ­Iammartino, Chicago, Illinois

Sweezy Lake. Yep, that's the name of the place: "Swee-zeee." Pronounced just like it's spelled. Sweezy is a tiny lake in a tiny town whose name I've forgotten. For a couple of summers when I was a kid, my parents had a cottage on that lake. … I'm not sure this place would meet anyone's highfalutin expectations of a summer home. The dumpy yellow house had a kitchen almost big enough to turn around in, provided you were alone. And slim. And not carrying anything. And the back porch had nary a rocker. There was the red-and-green couch from the house my parents lived in before I was born, and I think I remember a card table with assorted chairs. … At Sweezy Lake, we kids ran around covered in dirt, hyped up on grape sodas and hot dogs. We'd burp the alphabet loudly. (I never got past E in one belch. I'm quite dainty.) Our cottage at Sweezy Lake had a three-seat outhouse, the first I'd ever encountered (and the only one I've seen since). I could never understand why three people might decide to take a sit-down in an outhouse together. … At Sweezy … my brothers taught me to fish. For me, fishing meant waiting for a hook with a worm already attached, and holding­ the fishing pole until it got a tug. Then I'd shriek for someone to "get the fish, get the fish!" Someone would take the pole and reel in the three-inch-long sunfish. … After a few days straight of swimming in the lake and drying in the sun, we'd get a bit rank. So Dad would toss us kids into the boat with a bottle of shampoo, and we'd head over to the sandy-beach area of the lake. I don't know how clean we could possibly get by bathing in lake water, but that counted as bath time. After so many years, Sweezy Lake remains a snapshot in my mind.
- Amie Wyrostek, San Antonio, Texas

The West African nation of Guinea-Bissau. Guinea-Bissau is one of the poorest nations on earth and lacks a tourist industry, which makes travel there adventurous and different­ than in other locations. Throughout my life, I'd never given much thought to Africa. All I knew about it were the pyramids and mummies in Egypt, and that Stanley found Livingston in the jungle, Captain Jeffrey T. Spaulding shot an elephant in his pajamas (how it got in his pajamas I'll never know), the armies of Patton and Rommel fought there, and Humphrey Bogart told Sam to "play it again" in Casablanca. … Guinea-­Bissau changed my whole concept of Africa in general and of the plight of the impoverished in particular. Outside the city of Bissau, people live in grass houses. Children and women­ walk a mile or more to fetch a few bucketfuls of water and then walk back to their homes so they have water for cooking and washing. People traverse land contaminated with deadly munitions of war, just to pick the delicious cashew fruit for their meals or to farm a small plot where they grow crops. Forget about what we consider life's essentials: plumbing, electricity, the Internet, and watching CSI. The people there endure what we know to be extreme hardships, but they're not unhappy or bitter. The people in Guinea­-Bissau are friendly and quick to smile. … What brought me to Guinea­-Bissau is the need there for expertise in destroying the military munitions scattered throughout the country: bombs, rockets, and projectiles remaining from the various armed conflicts and military occupations that Guinea-Bissau (like many African and Asian nations) has endured. … The country is special to me because it has a unique need that I can help fill, and in the coming months and years, Guinea-Bissau will become a better place for its citizens. - Dennis Hackenberger,
North Las Vegas, Nevada

Terminal D at DFW. (Yes, I'm praying my wife never reads this.) … Terminal D is a true oasis in the desert! Where else can you do all your Christmas shopping, pick up the latest DVDs and a pair of noise-canceling headphones, and down two or three of the best margaritas in town? That's right, Terminal D at DFW! (No disrespect intended to Terminals A, B, and C.) Imagine three soaring stories of beautiful retail and restaurants, accented by glorious sculptures and dramatic skylights. If it were not for the pesky flight announcements, you'd completely forget you are in an airport. Whenever I fly in to DFW, I anxiously await the announcement of our arrival gate as my plane taxis in. If it's not in Terminal D, I hang my head in sorrow, but my hopes and prayers are only temporarily dashed. After all, there's a 33 ­percent chance that my connecting flight will leave from Terminal D. If not, then things get ­really interesting. Do I have enough time in my layover to hop on the Skylink, get over to Terminal D, soak in the ambience at the bar in Cantina Laredo, and then make it back to Terminal A or C in time for my departure? Sometimes I feel like Tom Cruise in Mission: Impossible trying to pull it off (well, maybe not exactly like Tom Cruise). I remember the time I had a three-hour layover in Terminal D. I was safely ensconced in the luxurious Terminal D Admirals Club, sitting there mesmerized by the soaring panorama of touchdowns and takeoffs. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective), I had forgotten to adjust my watch to Central time, and I missed my connection. Oh joy! I had another four hours to bask in Terminal D's glory. … Happy travels, and may all your DFW layovers include a Terminal D connection! - Corey Sommers,
Santa Clara, California

Some parts of the country call them diners, some call them greasy spoons, others call them Waffle House or Denny's - but I call them my kitchen, and there's no place like one of these restaurants for me. The hours of operation accommodate my crazy work and travel schedule. … Accessibility from the highway is key. I can eat at the counter and chat with the short-order cook, or I can get a booth and talk to my wife while I eat - either way, I get to glance at the local color that I don't normally get to see inside the airport, the hotel, or the office building where I am working. Not to mention, I love the comfort food! I've probably eaten in one of these establishments at every hour of the day. Red-eye flights, client deadlines, time-zone changes, and the travel hiccups that are bound to happen when you fly more than 100,000 miles a year mean that dinnertime isn't just at six p.m. for me. … Pulling out of the rental-car lot in the wee hours of the morning, I've learned to scan the highways for billboards or tall signs calling me to these eateries. … I've visited 47 of the 50 states and … even adopted tastes that reflect some of the regions where I've spent time. … Now, some people might wonder why I haven't tried all of the great restaurants that so many cities have to offer. … But that's just it - I have. I spend many nights out to dinner either entertaining clients or meeting with coworkers, but many of these dinners are just an extension of work for me. The 24-hour eatery is like my kitchen. This is where I go when I want late-night comfort food like eggs and hash browns or a greasy bacon cheeseburger. And what about dessert? Well, I leave that to the airports - I know where the ice cream stands are at just about every major airport in the United States!
— Peter Cavallo, Centerport, New York





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ISSUE: Jan 15, 2007
American Way Cover - 1/15/2007