American Way Cover - 1/1/2003

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Merenda Restaurant | Cafe Squaw Valley | San Francisco | Balboa Café

Ski Country Cuisine

by Elaine Glusac

Carbo Load At These New High-Altitude Eateries

ASPEN: The Colony, 307-B S. Mill St., (970) 920-4646
Paying tribute to the British Empire, The Colony imports colonial-inspired cuisine to the Rockies. Brit ex-pat owner Sue Parry, who also runs Aspen’s famed Popcorn Wagon, hired former Little Nell sous-chef Michael Ruggeberg to navigate the kitchen. Euro touches work their way into dishes like duck breast vindaloo with sweet potato basil purée. Après-ski the Anglophile way at The Colony’s afternoon tea.

BEND, OREGON: Merenda Restaurant & Wine Bar (pictured), 900 N.W. Wall St., (541) 330-2304
After success in San Francisco with LuLu, Zibbibo, and Azie, chef Jody Denton cut ties and moved to outdoorsy Bend near Mount Bachelor. His new joint, Merenda, proffers rustic, wood-fired dishes from France and Italy, such as Tuscan-grilled spare ribs, pancetta-wrapped King salmon, and rotisserie-fired chicken and lamb. The convivial brick-walled Merenda also claims the state’s largest by-the-glass wine list.

LAKE TAHOE: Balboa Cafe Squaw Valley, 1995 Squaw Valley Rd., (530) 583-5850
A spinoff of the San Francisco original, Balboa Café joins sister eatery PlumpJack at Squaw Valley’s village. Seared salmon, steak frites, and the popular baguette burger typify Balboa’s American bistro menu sourcing fresh ingredients from nearby farms and Bay Area suppliers. Linen-topped tables, Spanish-style armoires, and sunny colors generate warmth. The ski-in/ski-out crowd see and be seen in the bustling bar.



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