ENJOYAGLASS--OR8
Move over wine, because water's bubbling up the
beverage ladder with an equal amount of epicurean snobbery.
-- Kristine Hansen
Michael Mascha's book Fine Waters: A
Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Most Distinctive Bottled
Waters (Quirk Books) provides as much detail (minerality,
hardness, food pairings) as you'd find on the label of a Napa
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Mascha has even developed a four-level
rating system, from Still to Bold.
"Water is not just a commodity. It should be treated
as a product with natural terroir," Mascha says. Case in point: the
Restaurant at the Setai in Miami Beach recently introduced a
water-pairing menu. "If you want to be a top-end hotel or
restaurant, you also have to pay attention to the water, giving
more options than still or sparkling." Other offerings could
include rainwater (Tasmania is one great source for this),
springwater (free-flowing water), artesian water (which flows from
underground to the surface under natural pressure, without having
to be pumped), and glacier iceberg water. There are about 3,000
brands of water from all over the world on the market, and in 2007
the industry was a $10 billion business, up from $5 billion in
2000.
To branch out from the usual, sip heavier mineral
waters -- those with up to 3,000 milligrams of mineral per liter --
as they more accurately express the terroir. Or, try these
suggestions from Mascha.
Antipodes (springwater, New Zealand)
This water spends 50 years under pressure in an
aquifer that's 500 to 1,000 feet underground, and it surfaces with
a low mineral content and a neutral taste. The modern bottle is
modeled after New Zealand sherry and beer bottles. Light bubbles
ensure that this water pairs well with all kinds of food. People
who usually don't like sparkling water will want to give this one,
which has a soft effervescence, a try. $3. www.antipodes.co.nz
Lauquen (artesian
water, Patagonia)
Lauquen begins as ice and rain in the Andes, bearing
low mineral content and a neutral pH. But after traveling up 1,500
feet from the aquifer under its own pressure, the water surfaces at
39 degrees Fahrenheit and with unique mineral content. $3.
www.lauquenwater.com
Aquadeco (springwater, Canada)
The aquifer supplying Aquadeco was created during
the last ice age (about 18,000 years ago). The art deco bottle
is made in Slovenia by a company that has produced fine glass
for more than 600 years. $8. www.aquadecowater.com
Cape Grim
(rainwater, Tasmania)
This is a soft, very neutral-tasting
water. Air pollution is nearly nonexistent in
northwest Tasmania's Cape Grim, and clean air means unpolluted
rain, which falls on the cold, remote, rocky site of the Cape Grim
Water Company for about 185 days per year. This water pairs well
with subtle flavors; try it with sushi and sashimi. $12.
www.capegrim.com.au
Iskilde (springwater, Denmark)
Iskilde means "cold spring" in Danish. The
spring was discovered in 2001 in the Danish Lake Highlands' Mosso
Reservation area. The classic Scandinavian bottle design is elegant
and functional. The water's nice minerality works well with food
and red wine. $3. www.iskilde.dk
The Life
Aquatic
"Water:
H20=Life,"at the American
Museum of Natural History in New York City through May 26,
explores issues such as the need for clean, plentiful water;
water shortages; restoring ecosystems; New York City stewards of
water (from Savoy co-owner Peter Hoffman to a homeowner
collecting water in a rain barrel); and how animals and plants
rely on water. $22 Also occuring this May is the first annual
Premium Water Summit, which will convene in Barcelona and
feature various panel discussions as well as a water-tasting
event. The mission on tap? A plan to create a premium water
society.
Face Value
»Celebrity endorsements can help sell
any product, including water. Last year, Jennifer Aniston emerged as the
face for Glacéau Smartwater. Leonardo DiCaprio's short film
Water Planet took a look
at water shortages and pressed for better conservation.
And Sarah Jessica Parker
hosted a UNICEF event that urged for
increasing worldwide standards for tap water.
How to Serve It
»Unlike wine, water does not need air
-- but it still demands an ideal glass for sipping. Pour it
into a straight-sided, narrow glass. This is especially
crucial with a sparkling water, so as to enjoy the bubbles.
Mascha, who is developing a line of glasses exclusively for
drinking water, suggests Bottega del
Vino's hand-blown crystal water glass
($40).