Georgia On His Mind
by Mark Seal
Did you do the Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil
tour, since the book put the city on the map for so many
millions? Well, you know, the first thing you learn when you're
in Savannah is the locals kind of roll their eyes when they hear
the whole
Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil thing.
That [the murder at the heart of the book] was a real scandal in
that town. But how it ever got unleashed into the sort of mythic
proportions it did was only because there was a really good writer
behind it. But still, there are some very cool aspects of that.
Like the Mercer Williams House, home of the late antiques dealer
Jim Williams, who shot his young lover, Danny Hansford. Do they do
tours through that now? Sure. But I don't think they like it
when you ask about "that," though. They don't like you talking
about the murder or something. They get a little weird on that. I
saw it from the outside. It's kind of creepy-looking only because
of, you know, the history of the whole thing. But it's really
beautiful. All of the houses down in that area, if you're into
architecture, are really fantastic. There are a lot of different
architectural influences: Italianate, classical, Greek Revival.
It's a real mix. You think there are going to be these sort of
antebellum mansions there, and they're really not.
For breakfast, I understand, it's Clary's Café, where John
Berendt found so many great characters. Clary's is, like, the
oldest joint there. It's not just breakfast. You can also get
dinner. But it's kind of known for its breakfast. My wife said she
had the best Georgia-pecan pancakes she ever had in her entire life
there. They also do real traditional stuff. I'm not a
biscuits-and-gravy kind of guy, but that is where I sampled
biscuits and gravy, and it can make a believer out of you.
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