Join Dolce and Gabbana, one of the
world's hottest design teams, as they share their secrets of
shopping their hometown of Milan.
If you're the type to race off the plane with a "to get" instead of
a "to do" list, if your idea of local culture is a sale sign in a
boutique window, if you plan your itineraries around what shops to
hit, then you probably already know that Milan is arguably, in
terms of quality, quantity, and the high concentration of shops,
the best shopping city on the planet for both men and women. A
focused shopping day in Milan can stock your closets - and your
home and office - for years to come.
But a mere credit card can't buy you admittance into the inner
sanctum of the Milan supershopper. For that, you need a guide. And
who better than red-hot designers Domenico Dolce, 43, and his
partner Stefano Gabbana, 38, known the world over as Dolce and
Gabbana or, more simply, D&G.
The Milan-based duo has dressed Tom Cruise, Ben Stiller, Johnny
Depp, Madonna, Nicole Kidman, Whitney Houston, Demi Moore, Susan
Sarandon, and a multitude of other stars and everyday style mongers
for more than 15 years. With annual sales of close to $300 million,
they live in an antiques- and art-laden 19th-century villa in the
center of the city. They have intimate knowledge of the streets
where they live, work, and, most importantly, shop in the retail
heart of Milan, which is currently in the throes of a retail
renaissance.
"Milan is undergoing a vast retail boom," the International
Herald Tribune recently announced. "Not only are high-end
designer stores popping up left, right, and center, but mainstream
brands are rushing to open new stores, or giving their existing
ones a major makeover … ."
So break out that strong dollar and follow Dolce and Gabbana's
guide to the planet's most mercantile-minded city. With retail
prices presently lower than in the States, you'll have money left
over for dinner, drinks, and everything else associated with la
dolce vita.
In Italy's capital of commercialism, the designers, retailers, and
assorted fashionistas are moving fast, always looking to next
season, which is already in the shop windows and on the backs of
the Milanese. Up at 9, you're about to join them. From your room at
the Four Seasons Milan or the Grand Hotel
et de Milan - chosen for their proximity to the fashion
district - you gulp that espresso in order to be the first through
the doors when the stores open at 10.
DOLCE: "I like to go to Sant'
Ambroeus, one of the oldest and most established pastry
and coffee shops in Milan. I particularly like it because the
quality of their pastries and breads is superb and the environment
is very chic. They make the best espresso in town and they also
have great brioche in the morning. I love to sit there and
people-watch, because all of the well-dressed ladies in Milan stop
in. It is a ritual for them to go there every Saturday
morning."
Forsaking the city's treasures - La Scala, the filigreed Duomo, Da
Vinci's recently renovated Last Supper - you race straight
to Montenapo, local slang for the Via Monte Napoleone. This main
street dates back to the Napoleonic era and now runs through the
heart of a shopping district that boasts perhaps the highest
concentration of designer shops on earth.
DOLCE: "There are great apparel stores on Via
della Spiga, Via Sant' Andrea, and Via Monte Napoleone. These
streets are all in the center of Milan. It would be boring for us
to name clothing stores because that would be too obvious."
Indeed, every name in Italian design - and infinite other
nationalities - stands sign-to-sign on the streets of Montenapo.
There are four Prada stores, four Armani stores, one Gucci
superstore that packs in all 11 different lines, and two Valentino
stores at the same address, with a third for younger fashions
called Oliver (named after the designer's dog). There are flagship
boutiques by Ferragamo, Pratesi, Missoni, Bulgari, Etro, and dozens
of other noted Italian designers. A few lesser-known-outside-Milan
names include the locals' favorite Fiorucci Department Store, which
has just about everything. There's La Perla for lingerie,
Fornasetti for housewares, Fratelli Rossetti for its famous
flexible shoe, and Tod's, the Diego Della Valle shoes that cleave
to the hooves of stars like Sharon Stone. But to detail each of
these would be, as Gabbana so aptly puts it, "obvious" and "boring"
- the two most dreaded words in fashion.
DOLCE: "There are very unique stores in Milan
where I love to shop, that offer merchandise exclusive to them. One
of my favorites is Mirabello. This store is well
known for its handmade linens. They offer a great selection of
linen curtains and bathroom accessories. Another of my favorites is
Lorenzi (above), a kitchenware store on Via Monte
Napoleone. They have the best selection of scissors and knives of
impeccable quality with exquisite details, including handcrafted
knives, combs, and razors with ivory and tortoiseshell
handles."
Don't miss this Dolce and Gabbana fave, Montenapo's version of a
hardware store. The multifloor shop stocks more than 18,000
different items, ranging from kitchen utensils to eclectic items
such as wooden polenta knives, stainless-steel spears, and
utilitarian wood saws. Nobody needs 20 different kinds of scissors,
but Lorenzi has them.
From Lorenzi, turn the corner and walk to the main Dolce
& Gabbana store on Via della Spiga, an ultra-hip
emporium of high design. You'll love Via della Spiga, the almost
hidden, stone alleyway that houses many of the most vaulted
designer names. The D&G store is where the boys always begin
their Saturday shopping expeditions.
"Every Saturday, they're shopping," says a Dolce & Gabbana
front-desk manager. "Chanel for their mothers,
Alessi for the home, Scavia,
Cartier, or Bulgari for the
jewelry." And Vetrerie di Empoli for the
glassware.
GABBANA: "My favorite store in Milan is Vetrerie
di Empoli. It is a very small business offering a selection of both
antique and modern handblown glass pieces. They have an amazing
collection of Venetian glasses and chandeliers dating back to the
1400s. This boutique is special because their antique collection is
always in excellent shape. They work with some of the most
interesting modern artists to create glass designs and chandeliers.
This is a great store, and I go there whenever I have to buy a gift
or when I just want to add to my own collection."
The moment you step onto its ancient wooden floors and walk through
the rainbow of glass, you'll instantly know where Dolce and Gabbana
get the inspiration for their incredibly vivid lines. The glasses
mirror Dolce & Gabbana clothing: bright scarlets, deep purples,
glorious golds … nothing subtle, and nothing cheap. Glasses can
soar into the 95,000-lira range for a single stem. Dolce and
Gabbana buy them by the dozen.
Reluctantly, you leave Montenapo and cab through the hip and artsy
Brera district - "one of the most famous areas of Milan, and home
to the best museums and galleries," says Dolce. It is the site of
the Academia di Brera, "which houses one of the most extensive
collections of medieval and baroque art," he continues. There are
masterworks by Titian, Rembrandt, and Van Dyck. Brera's treasures
for the shopper include Luisa Beccaria, classy
party duds for children; Diego Dalla Palma for
makeup; and a tiny shop called Merù, where the
Mereu brothers craft precious jewelry.
But Brera's star is 10 Corso Como. If there is a
mecca for the Milanese shopper, this is it, the hippest department
store on earth, headquarters for the eternally browsing. It's sort
of a collection of open-air souks, laid out like a caravansary,
perhaps best described as what your richest, hippest friends might
do if they decided to sell everything they owned at an elegant
garage sale.
DOLCE: "I like to have lunch at 10 Corso
Como Cafe. It's the latest addition to Ms. Carla Sozzani's
world-famous 10 Corso Como store and gallery. She has one of the
most exquisite stores and galleries in Milan, with a very
interesting concept based on her extraordinary taste. She has
combined Moroccan and Asian influences to create a modern ambience.
The restaurant offers a selection of natural foods and drinks:
fruit juices, smoothies, Asian salads, hummus, couscous, and a
great selection of teas."
After lunch, take a walk through the Corso Como's racks and
displays, which include the world's best bookstore dedicated
exclusively to art and fashion, housewares, clothing, accessories,
a mini art gallery, and much, much more. You could linger for days
in the Brera district, dropping into antiques shops and staying
until dinnertime, when charming restaurants fill and the
fortunetellers set up their tables on the candlelit street. When
you depart Corso Como, say at around 3, you're probably almost
sated with shopping. But there's one more supermall you have to
hit.
Ahead looms the shopper's mother lode: the Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II, the Galleria, known locally as
Il Salotto di Milano (Milan's parlor), serving its
citizenry for more than a century. This four-story, glass-domed
atrium is the world's first shopping mall, often imitated but never
challenged. There are sidewalk cafes, bookstores, restaurants, and,
of course, shops, perhaps most notably Prada. Not
just any Prada, but the original suitcase and leather shop where
the current global empire began.
The landmark Prada store sits just beyond the Galleria center,
where stepping on the testicles of Taurus on the zodiac floor
mosaic is supposed to bring the passerby good luck. In addition to
clothing for both men and women is the still-stellar line of Prada
luggage, which runs the gamut, from steamer trunks to computer
cases.
And your shopping day by joining the locals at either the bar of
the Grand Hotel et de Milan or the lobby of the Four Seasons Milan
in the heart of Montenapo. By 5, the latter's lobby swells with
famous designers and their customers, and the floor is strewn with
shopping bags.
For dinner, Dolce and Gabbana have two suggestions:
DOLCE: "When I am away, I miss Italian food a lot.
So I tend to want to eat at a typical Milanese restaurant upon my
return home. One of my favorites is Da Giacomo,
one of the best seafood restaurants in Milan. He also offers great
pasta dishes and risotto."
GABBANA: "Trattoria Giapponese
has a great environment and delicious sushi. For me it's the
perfect meal before going out for the night. It's very tasty and
light at the same time."
Afterward, return to the Navigli district, Gabbana's favorite,
where, he says, "There is nothing more romantic than taking a walk
at night."
to market
milan has mastered the art of the municipal market, affording every
zone of the city, aside from the center, its own specific open-air
market on a particular day: monday is the artsy brera district, the
market specializing in shoes; tuesday's for bargain hunting in the
market at via benedetto marcello, leading up to saturday, with
designer clothing at discount prices in the navigli district's
mercato di viale papiniano, and an even bigger sale at fiera di
senigallia. any concierge in the city can advise you on the
markets.
the biggest blowout of all is dolce's choice, the mercatone
dell'antiquariato, held on the last sunday of each month on the
banks of the naviglio grande. hundreds of stalls line the river for
which the market is named, offering antique furniture, glass, and
other items. get there early, as the best wares go fast.
aside from the markets, most milanese shops are closed on sundays,
as well as monday mornings. -