misunderstood beverage | Japan | travel mavens | Sony
For Goodness Sake
by
Anthony Dias BlueIf sake isn't the most misunderstood
beverage on the planet, at the very least it suffers from
ongoing identity crisis.
Calling sake rice wine, as many people still do, is inaccurate,
since it's actually brewed from a grain. On the other hand, calling
it rice beer, while perhaps more technically correct, doesn't do
anything for sake's image either. After all, we usually expect beer
to be fizzy, relatively inexpensive, and good with pizza. Quality
sake is none of these.
The culture of
Japan often seems impenetrable even to fairly
sophisticated travel mavens, and sake suffers from the general
public's confusion when it comes to anything more traditionally
Japanese than the latest
Sony Play-Station gadget. Appreciating
sake is nearly as difficult for your ordinary hamburger-munching
American as understanding Noh theater or properly pruning a
300-year-old bonsai. (Then again, the culture barrier probably
works both ways: I somehow can't imagine a Japanese audience
sitting through an episode of
The Osbournes.)
Another reason sake is misunderstood is because much of the sake
served in the U.S. is low-grade stuff, the quaff of Japanese chain
restaurants and noodle parlors. If the sake you order is served
warm, you're probably getting swill fit for Godzilla. High-end sake
should be properly served chilled, and the best sakes have a
complexity and subtlety that matches (some experts would even say
surpasses) that of the finest wines.
WAKATAKE DAIGINJO "ONIKOROSHI"
($38)
Onikoroshi, I'm told, means "demon killer." The term originally
referred to sake so atrocious it would kill a banshee at one gulp.
But, as with certain beers whose macho names really advertise how
good they are, Onikoroshi has now become a positive attribute,
signifying a sake of superior prowess. If there are demons around,
they're probably lining up to be slain by this stuff.
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