Fromage? Formaggio? Queso? Just say “cheese” stateside, where restaurants are newly keen on the European-style cheese course as a sub for — or supplement to — dessert. Chicago bistro Pluton (312-266-1440) touts an all-American-made selection wheeled tableside. Fuego (505-986-0000, www.rock resorts.com) in Santa Fe employs a “cheese whiz” to oversee the care and serving of its 24-variety list. The New Orleans Grill (504-525-8449, www.windsor­courthotel.com) in New Orleans, of course, plates 28 cheeses­ and scoops Roquefort ice cream (we dare you). Dairy-centric New York restaurant The Artisanal Cheese Center adds the cheese in Au Bon Pain Cafes (www.aubon pain.com) in New York and Boston airports, coming soon to 190 outlets nationwide. Bon appètit!
— ELAINE GLUSAC