Days one and two:

Auckland to Rotorua

One of the first road signs we see on State Highway 1 out of Auckland says "If you're prepared to speed, be prepared to kill." Wow. That's heavy. James is used to New Zealand's graphic approach to curbing traffic violations, but for me it's a jolt. ­Fortunately, we need not worry about such things. We scored a major deal on our rental car from an outfit called A2B Rentals and ended up with a beat-up 1995 Toyota Sprinter with 66,000 miles on it - we're lucky if it pushes­ 50 mph. Off we go.

To the northeast of Auckland is a jutting stretch of land called the Coromandel Peninsula, one of the most beautiful parts of the North Island, the island that often gets the short end of the New Zealand stick. South Islanders will say things like, "There are only two kinds of people who live in New Zealand: those who live in the South, and those who wish they did," and so forth. Oddly, North Islanders tend to agree. Still, there is much to be seen here.

We hug the opaque green waters of the Firth of Thames on our way to Cathedral Cove, a stunning patch of sand accessed via a hilly coastal track (or by boat, though the rental company didn't throw that in to the deal). This secluded haven is framed by jagged white cliffs and bisected by an enormous rock arch that resembles the nave of a looming cathedral. It would be a perfect spot for a romantic picnic (though not with James).

We wake up the next morning in Mount Maunganui, a superb surfer's town on the northeast coast, where James grew up. It's not big on the tourist map - I'm not sure why - but tell any Kiwi you're from "the Mount," and the jealousy is palpable. Here I'm introduced to the spirulina smoothie, a wonderful morning wake-up drink that's ubiquitous in New Zealand. At Sidetrack café, the best of many charming cafés along the Mount's beachfront, it's a frothy, earthy, grass green concoction that's healthful and tasty at the same time. It will become the first of many surprisingly pleasing café experiences along the road.

That evening, we roll into Rotorua, where we find the Zorb. Now, you've seen the Zorb on TV. It's that big, plastic bubble-looking thing that rolls down hillsides, with people inside. Kind of fun, kind of cheesy, right? Well, James and I pile inside with low expectations and come out on the other side a wet, laughing mess. Oddly enough, tumbling down a nearly 500-foot hillside in a plastic bubble full of water with another person is a lot more fun than it looks. I hear having three people is even better.